My build progress

DOGSCRATCH is complete!



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So awesome!
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Case all oiled up and looking good. It’s not a woodwork masterpiece but will be functional and do the job!

Still waiting on my tayda order to allow me to finish my first modules and start on some strip board ones.

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Looks pretty amazing to me…

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You learned from others… start with four rows :slight_smile:

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Looks great! Next item on the agenda is wash your car, I guess :wink: ?

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That’s the scrap car, anyone need parts to a 2013 Audi a1?

And thanks for the kind words. (:

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Yes look very nice and like said @eric dirrectely 4 rows is a good anticipation :wink:

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If you are new to electronics then I have some very simple stripboard layouts. I only started 4-5 months ago without any prior knowledge. And this is how it looks so far. So if you are interested, just get in touch!

NATURALLY EVERYTHING is self-made!

Greetings Thomas

Besides, I started with 2 rows in Eurorack format and already have the boards for the next rack at the start :slight_smile:

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which MS-20 schematic do you use?

This is Sam´s Schematic, i just added a Eurorack Pin Header


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looks fine , and a nice functional design .

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so rebuilt the work desk to be a little more user friendly .
and thats the https://www.eddybergman.com/2020/05/synthesizer-build-part-33-digisound-80.html
module that is getting close to finished .

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Just need a shit ton of knobs. Lol.

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Ah @devicex I now have space envy.

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yeah but the " space " isn’t free , kind of shitty how that works , for now …

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Ain’t that the truth brother!

Thanks. It has just landed on my bench.
One thing I don’t get is how to add more inputs: Sams sheet says

“For more inputs, add another 10k resistor from pin4 of the LM13700 and another input jack”

But in between there’s the DPDT switch, which routes the input either to the 10k resistor on pin4 or the 1nF cap on pin12. I guess the text is from an earlier revision of the layout.
How to add more inputs?

Are you a Winnie-The-Pooh fan ( tigger in )?

Finished my third oscillator. I happened to have an AS3345-HYB—basically the AS3340 without the PW detune problem—and can confirm it works as advertised.

I hand matched the 0.1% resistors to be even closer and the calibration was much easier, I think.

Final note, I socketed the seven segment display to get it flush with the panel and I think it looks much nicer. Would have looked even nicer if I hadn’t used a 0.53” one rather than the appropriate 0.56” one. I can see that the two unsovketed ones on my other VCOs would have fit perfectly.

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