Hahaha! Yep. Goodbye, jack stash.
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Yes. We use both AC and less often mains, but I think most often you’ll hear people say “the wall.” (I wish I was kidding.) There is a growing awareness of the Tesla/Edison feud that lead to the world-wide use of Alternating Current for power transmission but probably not among Covidiots and mask-haters.
I note that @THOGRE 's diagram still says AC in, and that you seem to be bridging some gap between mains and AC as concepts-do the “wall-warts and line-lumps” everywhere else still output an alternating current and require external rectification?
And the previous two things I built were a @CTorp switched multiple (8 jacks, 8 toggle switches, 16 LEDs) and my version of the 8 step keyboard sequencer (15 jacks, 16 pots, 11 toggle switches, 8 arcade buttons, 8 LEDs, 1 rotary switch).
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There are AC-to-DC wall warts and AC-to-AC wall warts. The FC power supplies use an AC-to-AC (120 or 240VAC to 12VAC).
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I’ve been waiting to see that “1U” Kosmo row. Looks super useful! Are the attenuator knobs offset horizontaly for ergonomics or is there an additional reason? Are the multiples/format converters all passive?
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Yeah, all passive. Knob offsets are just to increase spacing between them, they’re just wired as attenuators between the two jacks.
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Smart! It all looks great!
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Sure, drinking something and meeting outside the Matrix with a lot of you would be cool 
But technology still allows us to be able to exchange around a common passion, and that’s already cool 
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That is what I meant, the circuit shown is for low voltage AC input only.
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Yes, that’s true. I’d have gone mad if not for my friends here at LMNCD over the term of the present crisis.
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The first module I built was the performance filter. I botched it bad enough that I gave up and ordered another PCB. I’ve had the botched board lying around since then and finally felt confident and inspired enough to fix it. I also cut a new panel from a sheet of steel and I’ve decided to leave it without labels or doodles since I know the functions by heart and it’s a nice contrast to the chaos of the original panel:
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I’ve been debating blacking out all the modules, but I’ll wait until I have more.
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or maybe you have gone mad , its just acceptable here
or just not as noticeable 
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I remember there was a comment on SAMS FC PSU build asking to clarify what he was inputting with his 1/4" Jack Plug {other worldwide terms are available}.
If you applied “Mains” to the board it would just blow everything in a big bang.
The PSU circuit NEEDS “AC” in order to be able to provide +12V and -12V . Or at least in a cheap and simple way.
You could have a PSU run on DC and then use some fancy circuits to generate the -12V (an inverter circuit), but it’s like translating English-to-Welsh-to-English.
Most wall warts are DC as the equipment is just using a +V DC rail. these cheap bricks usualy just have a transformer and a cheap diode bridge.
We need +12/-12 as does a lot of audio equipment so that needs the AC.
In terms of the Edison/Tesla/Westinghouse AC/DC battle… It’s quite simple, you can’t simply change one DC voltage to another. And trying to transmit 80V at 20A over any distance requires chunky cables and gets lots of loss. whereas transforming say 80VAC to 25,000VAC reduces the current massivly allowing very long transmission lines.
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It’s unfortunate that this basic engineering fact has been dramatised as a clash of personalities. DC transmission over long distance was never going to be feasible. The romanticisation of Tesla and Edison has obfuscated this behind a mountain of bullshit.
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Long distance DC transmission is not only possible, it is a reality since way over 50 years.
And it beats AC transmission lines in terms of efficiency.
But it uses technology not available (in “industrial quality/reliability” at least) at Edison’s/Tesla’s times.
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the VCLFO in the case 
EDIT :
I realized that with the VCA which interrupts the sound that the LFO demo at the beginning was not very good, I remade a small one for my site, I put it to you too.
A note, the switch to engage the sync only works when the Dist pot is at 10, then I can adjust it but to engage the sync it must be fully, a little strange but it is enough to know
Sync with drum at the end :
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Next stage of the oscilloscope:
Once it is finished I’ll open a thread with a description, schematic and such.
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Ooooh. Beautiful. Definitely adding it to my list.
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The patch cable, knob and LEDs let this look down. Should be all black.
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