My build progress

All modules in the DIY SYNTHI in place! Still tweaking left but it feels like an instrument now! :folded_hands:

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home built? wow how long and what about the stick pin matrix brown board, love it wow great job all around

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Thank you! :folded_hands::hugs:

Time? Hmmm… Daydreaming, drawing and design a couple of years. :winking_face_with_tongue:

Then I built other stuff, slowly got better. I could not have built this five years ago. :sweat_smile:

But the actual building from first cuts of wood and metal to all modules in place took around three months, Working entire weekends a lot…

Matrix, parts… Yes, I got really lucky finding a used matrix on eBay… took quite some time… a guy in Ukraine or Latvia sold it from old army surplus stuff for around 20 Euros.

And all of a sudden even Amazon/Ebay sold these nice 10-turn vernier dials/planet gears, that actually look almost identical to the real thing (much cheaper on eBay).

https://www.amazon.com/Matching-Button-Linear-Digital-Potentiometer/dp/B0FLDWNSDJ/

Or search ā€œRV24YN Series Button Linear Digital Knob SB360 RV30YN Potentiometer Switch KnPā€

Then, I repaired a real EMS3, took measurements and decided what I wanted most (as I found a smaller matrix, the original is 16x16)

Designed on paper and blueprints in Illustrator, A friend helped cut the holes in the 2mm aluminum panel (at his place of work, a well supplied university metal shop); printing the text was a laser print (A3) laminated at a place in town. I cut a lot of holes in the print before laminating to protect it better. Enclosing a pic from mid build, where the laminated paper is easier to see.

Same friend helped me with laser cutting the wooden box.

I figured I needed to build well so I could open it and change stuff many many times without breaking it, thus the double-frame-on-hinges design, very much inspired by the Nagra 3.

I got the idea for cable lacing again from vintage stuff… ordered very supple 28 gauge wire so I could fold away all connections…

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Another from my backlog of modules - a modified version of the Nonlinearcircuits Triple sloth module:

Getting this working properly was a bit of a saga! I started off using this schematic (for a double sloth) which uses higher value capacitors for the slower sloth. It worked well for the faster sloth on a breadboard but I couldn’t get the slower one to work, even after creating and studying a CircuitJS1 simulation. There’s also a schematic for the triple sloth using high value resistors for the slower sloths. At the time I couldn’t find a source for for the 68M and 100M resistors needed, so put this project aside for a while. Some time later I needed to buy resistors for another project and found a Chinese supplier of high value resistors on one of the usual auction sites. With these in hand I could get the slower sloths to run satisfactorily. With the help of my circuit simulation I tweaked some of the resistance values to get the maximum possible range of control over the oscillation behaviour of all three sloths, including adding a control potentiometer to the slowest (Inertia) sloth.

There was considerable variation in amplitude of the outputs, and I wanted all outputs at Eurorack levels ā‰ˆ ±5V, so I modified the circuit to allow either amplification or attenuation of the X outputs and tuning of the amplitude of the Y & Z outputs.

As usual the details are in my Github repository, including the full schematic, a PCB layout with all the alternative resistor positions for the output gain options, and a copy of the CircuitJS1 simulation to download for local use.

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Nicely done, good work!

I’m curious whether your’ ā€œFrequency Modā€ knob does much of anything? Mine seems to be completely dead but I’m not discounting the possibility that I’m just not using it correctly either.

I just finished a new module, Moritz Kleins Shapes VCO x4 with some added features. It has an octave knob and has a LMNC link input in the back.

More info on this Instagram post I made:

Here’s the schematic:

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where does the octave switch fit in ? I really like this project, and just curious the therm type pots are special temp sensing components ? Parts list possibly please.

ā€˜

I see in the instagram video the large knob at the top is the said ā€œoctaveā€ switch ā€œ , but where is in exactly on the schematic you made, just curious .

The octave switch is in the top left boxes, it uses a LM4040AIZ-5 shunt voltage reference (Whoops forgot to update the schematic) and a series of voltage dividers. The switch is basically a replacement for a coarse tuning knob in the Shapes VCO, it expects -5V to GND so I had to invert it with an op amp. It just connects via a 7 pin molex.

As for the temperature compensation I’d check out Moritz’s DIY VCO series, its the same circuit:

Also.. once I get my files organized, I’m thinking about sharing the source files of all my modules via github. Just not sure about the legality of it.

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Yes, Frequency Mod knob adjusts the amount the filter cutoff CV input impacts the sound. Therefore, it only does something if you are feeding it a frequency cutoff CV.

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Hi Ben , so what about the use of the 01x07 pin header on the switch voltage dilvider and ilnverter. He has a set of 10k’s used and after each one there is a large M . He also shows the switch going up and down like a pot and varies the freq knob . Is this a special switch type or a pin header that you choose one pin at a a time ilike MFOS does in his noise corocorpia ckt . I see what overall he does just curious about that section. Any help would be greatly apprectiated thanks .

you’re talking about something entirely different

I was trying to get explaination on the 4 vco module , my bad !!! Lets move on. Now looking at the instagram post i see it is a rotary switch at the top .

Just completed, a module I hadn’t intended to build - a modified version of Hagiwo’s 6-channel trigger sequencer.

However, having rewritten the code for the original Hagiwo version (see the discussion in the latter part of this thread) I thought perhaps I should have one afer all. Unsurprisingly, this one is based on my revised hardware for the Euclidean Rhythms module using a hardware SPI OLED display for maximum speed. Versions of my code for the 6-channel trigger sequencer (for both original Hagiwo I2C-based hardware and my modified SPI hardware) are on Github. I built this module using the PCB layout for my version of the Euclidean Rhythms module, also on Github.

I must just mention once again the advantage of using a SPI OLED display in an application like this which demands tight timing. It takes ~3ms for the Arduino to upload a fresh screenful to the OLED using hardware SPI compared with ~37ms using I2C. That ~35ms difference could easily be a very significant proportion of the total processing time.

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Awesome module!! My issues with the 6chn gate sequencer is ancient history now. Even with the relatively slow I2C, im not having any difficulties anymore. I think im gonna build the euclidean module too.

I’m intrigued. Does anyone happen to have a spare boardset laying around for sale or trade?

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OK, progress over the past three weeks as I’ve taken up the project again as the weather grows cooler… I’m now 4 for 4 with successful AO Hero/Sidekick builds, and have a few more at around 80% done. I’ve finished a rebranded AO Reverb that I got in a trade, a 1221, an 1183, a few of CrucFX’s passive low pass gates, and two runglers. After building two of Abe/AI Synthesis ā€œHigh Powerā€ supplies, my next step is to build a similar scaled cabinet as my current one, and take all of my voice modules on the road to a friends house to start exploring single voice opportunities together to really focus on learning all of the modules along a single audio chain. I’m hoping to treat the exercise like the DivKid single oscillator video here: https://youtu.be/KxsvH9Oub8I, except with some modules I’m even more excited to throw in like Rich’s Wave Displacer and Ringer modules.

I’ve got a few PCBs left over (they have silkscreen errors on a couple of pin headers) but sending them out of the UK would be problematic. It is easy enough (if a bit tedious) to build on prototyping board though.