Very impressive rig. Well done.
Can i suggest a small spray of fire retardant on the case insides. All the audio engineers I’ve toured with do this as standard with the older wood flight cases.
I look forward to seeing it populated.
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Today, I finished assembling and testing a module that I made using Electric Druid’s TAPLFO:
For the most part, everything works as intended! There are some weird momentary desyncs for a cycle when changing the multiplier or waveform distortion controls while using the tempo sync input, but for now I’ll chalk that up to a quirk in the PIC code. Now I just need to finish the documentation.
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Nice, I use these all the time, there is new code version D that fixes some sync issues, can you reprogram the chip yourself?
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Yes, I got a PICkit a couple weeks ago. I haven’t used it yet but I’m not too worried about figuring it out. Do you know where to access version D of the code? I saw it mentioned on the Electric Druid website, but can only find a download for version C.
I got it by reading a new chip I have 3D and reflashed all my C versions to D.
I can send you the file by email if you drop me a message.
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Do you use normal 3M screws for the 3D printer rails? Something that digs into the plastic more?
Just standard M3x8 screws. Friction is good enough to keep things in place. The holes probably have a finite lifespan, but even after dozens of insertions, I have yet to reach that point. A well-tuned printer is crucial for this.
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Yooooooo it works! Spent today installing it and doing a bit of organisation.
Also fixed my 2nd channel of Beaks on both modules.
Made a new bus board so I can get a couple new modules in next time I’m building =)
Good times!
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I have started building the Diode Ladder Filter from the Eddy Bergman website. All cuts, links and resistors done in this photo.
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Short improv testing my latest builds.
Two modules away from finishing my first case 
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Here is the finished Diode Filter board. I haven’t made the panel yet. The filter has two audio inputs and two CV inputs. Next thing is to plug the TL074 in and plug it in.
Chris
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Or maybe the other way round, to check voltages on the socket before destroying the '074…
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Looks nice!
One warning though, as every wire can work as an antenna receiving signals from outside (like mains humm), you would want to keep them as short as possible (or use shielded wire).
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I made them long as I dont know the layout of the front panel yet. I will test and tune it first.
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Ok guys I have got the diode ladder filter working as it should. There was a “you idiot Chris” moment but I fixed that. All I will say is make sure your links are in the correct position…OMG. I also made a panel out of metal but I have to get some spray paint (black of course). Then I will spray it up and make it presentable.
Chris
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NLC Bong0. My first mostly-SMD module in a few years (0805 resistors and caps, diodes and op amp are through hole). Worked the first time though I thought not at first because the LED wasn’t lighting up, turns out it’s dim at best depending on knob settings — it’s functional, not an indicator, so not really driven at visible levels. The panel’s a temporary 3D printed one to verify the mechanical design, and it has room for a second Bong0 alongside the first, haven’t built that yet.
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Did you get used easily to the microscope smd workflow? I have yet to do a serious smd project with mine.
Well, I’m not really used to SMD workflow with or without microscope. But it certainly makes it far easier for me to see my results — I’ve tended to mostly look at the board while initially placing the part and then look at the microscope screen to adjust the placement and verify the soldering.
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Here is the panel for the Diode Ladder Filter all fitted out with knobs and sockets. I still have to mount the PCBs and mark up the panel with a sharpie.
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Needs a bigger knob.
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