Needs more yellow
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yeah, gold was all i had to hand to change the original colour 
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BTW, I’m digging the yellow. I have some yellow reflective tape I was thinking of using to add some color to the case. Seems to match your knobs.
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My long unfinished kit (self build) kit car is yellow and black… continuing the bumblebee …
Which i guess begs the question, why are my own panels red??
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4th mixer in place .
not really thrilled with the way yellow knobs are different shades on the different sizes but not much can be done only so many options out there .
still waiting on pots for the delay
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You gonna put a mega drone in the middle??
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LOL , mini mega maybe . well gotta leave room for Sam’s up and coming modules .
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Sequencer. Goes there.
(Guess it needs to have 4 CV outs though. Good luck.)
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Kinda seems like there’s room for four of @analogoutput’s Mikrokosmos’s right down the middle 
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Sure, if you’ve got four hands.
(If you’ve got two hands and two feet, you could do two Mikrokosmos and two expression pedals.)
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Well, nothing says you have to tap it yourself. I’ve been experimenting a little bit with a transducer
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Some progress on the circuitbenders.co.uk clone of the Boss DR-55. I managed to find the elusive 45uH inductor, an ancient polarized 150nF capacitor and I’ve generally used old salvaged polyester caps to keep the vintage vibe 
. Basically just waiting on the LM324 and transistors to arrive. I’ll start modding once I get it working.
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45 mH, right? And are you sure that’s a polarized cap? Looks like an axial film cap to me.
(cannot quite read the type code but it looks a bit like WMF?)
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I figured that’s what the stripe indicates, but maybe not? It says WMF. And, yes, mH of course.
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Googled around a bit, and the CDE’s WMF looked exactly like that at some point, so my guess is that you have a WMF4P15K there, which is still being made (but looks a bit different, at least according to that datasheet). The black strip on these capacitors marks the side that’s connected to the outermost film layer, or “outside foil”, and by turning the capacitor the right way around you may get a bit of extra shielding in some circuitry. Unless you’re building tube amps, odds are it doesn’t matter the slightest.
(for the purists, Mr Carlson’s Lab has a long video here on how to identify the outside foil on unmarked capacitors)
Pretty sure your build will work just fine with that cap, though, the cap just looks a bit misplaced (but at least it’ll survive if you accidentally plug the board into mains )
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Very interesting. Let’s see how, (if?), it sounds once I get it all done.
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Honestly, especially since I didn’t even remember ordering the board until it showed up, part of the fun is just using vintage components and seeing how it turns out.
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