Finished the triple splashback, works well with the extra 100% wet option (and a bit of troubleshooting).
This is AMAZING. So much is going on!
Had a good morning!
Finished up the Kassutronics slope, tested and all working (as far as I can tell anyway, I’m not 100% on everything this thing can do yet, but quickly testing stuff out it seems good!), and got a bracket to mount my volca in my rack so I’ve got that racked and have taken a couple individual drum sounds out.
Need to finish up the rest of the outputs then this weekend I’ll build a small amplifier circuit to bring it up to euro volume levels, then I’ll be done with things again for a bit until I have more cash.
Overall plan for the Volca is individual outputs for all the sounds, CV control over the stutter effects (I know this can be done but don’t get how yet - haven’t read too much though), boost signals up for euro levels, then I want to figure out how to get gate or trigger outputs from them all. Not sure what the best way to go about that yet is, but I’ll probably end up building a PCB and panel for it and do it all properly… more thoughts on that to come but its pretty far down the line. I think I’ll be happy with just being able to separate the outputs and get them all up to volume for now.
the Volca looks really good in the rack !
Takes up lots of space, but I think I’ll be really happy with it!
My big problem with doing mods like the individual outs is that I suck at finishing work - figuring out a good way to make things look nice and tidy instead of just a big mess of wires… as seen in the bottom right with my Arturia Minibrute mods - just loose cables running under the synth to a panel (though I do have ideas for that, I just need to find some time). So racking the Volca isn’t really necessary, but it lets me make things nice and tidy easily.
Plus once I get all the envelope followers figured out, it will actually be a useful thing in the rack, as I can use it as a sequencer rather than just using the built in sounds
Wavefolder’s mostly working!
I went ahead and wired the wavefolder panel components. I know, I know, you were hoping to do that yourself.
Let’s not even pretend for a second it’s more than serviceable, but I’ve made a little armature for my 3d printed rails, finally. There’s also a 1U row and a 3U row. I currently can’t use my car and had only hand tools to cut it, and only scrap wood.
It’s not straight, not properly counterweighted, and not fastened properly. Glue instead of proper construction. But i could get it done today with hand tools and scrap wood instead of months from now. It should serve me well for a few months. Eventually I’ll make a proper case for my best modules to graduate to.
Also, I took the time to take a look back at everything I built in a year. Click the link for a detailed list what you’re looking at!
Oh yeah! Sounds really nice this will be the first module in my next case
Had a nice couple days working on a much needed effect, PT2399 Splashback Delay.
Missing 3 pots but everything else is together and looking good!
A big thank you to @Dax for popping in to the museum and posting some high quality b grades! Should have made a post in Mail Day tbh.
Next up is to DIY the vcadsr circuit and build a panel for the Twin T Drummer!
Hey, if you have the chance to add the 100% wet swtich do it. It sounds really nice !
Ohh thanks for the reminder, I’m still needing to finish it off so this gives me something to do while I wait for a thonk order =D
Basically working 4xLFO module. Texts should be moved down or made smaller, and logarithmic pots for frequency control would be better. And now that I look the settings on the level potentiometers, maybe logarithmic pots instead of linear ones there too would give better control. But the dual color leds that show speed and polarity look nice especially with triangle wave when they fade in and out. And unlike first prototype (and #1145 VCLFO…) the leds “read” signal before the level pot, so adjusting it doesn’t effect them.
I built 2 of Kristian Blåsol 's modules. I built 2 Beaks, they are thru hole versions of the Mutable Instruments Peaks module. In stead of an SMD version of an STM32F103 a Blue Pill is used. The DAC was replaced by using PWM.
The first module I built had a short UNDER one of the connectors which connects the BluePill to the PCB. This I found after building a 2nd Beaks and comparing them closely with a component tester from my 40+ year old Hameg Scope.
It is a utility with 2 channels and apart from different drum sounds both channels share the same functions (ADSR, LFO, Tapped ADSR, DRUM and some expert functions). This is my 1st MI module, there will probably be more.
As you may know the MI modules are open source and you can download the code from github. I set up the development environment as described and managed to get the adapted code to compile without a hitch.
BluePills
There is quite a bit of controversy surrounding the BluePills, amongst others see the Modular in a Week discourse server. Often people think when stuff does not work this may be caused by their BluePill being fake. Well, although I can not vouch for it to be a reliable test I’ve run BluePill diagnostic software on 6 BluePills I got from 3 vendors and none of them fully met the test requirements. However, four of the BluePills appear to be working well in my 2 instances of Beaks. Two of them show some odd behaviour on one of the 2 channels and need a closer look. You mileage may vary.
Not a new build, but I finally decided to fix the issues I had with an old one. It is now working well, and I replaced the sub generator for an echo (synthrotek pt2399) and it is also working, including minor errors of course.
I screwed a carrying handle (which previously was a separate thing to screw modules for debugging) to my Kosmo rack and used it in band practice. Seems to work fine. I can fit couple of modules there still, I have a dual VCA with extra mixed output in progress. So maybe one more, probably some kind of noise-thing.
I made a new frontpanel for my midimuso cv12 midi2cv interface. I adapted the midimuso so that it can output 0V … 10V as per default, or -5V … 5V once you flick a switch, which may be more usable in my rack.
So now all the old kinda neon looking green 3D-printed panels (3) have been replaced with wooden versions.
Good, I can sleep peacefully now