I made a Monotropa 2 (Monotropa II – Reverselandfill) in Kosmo format. I named it Kosmonotropa 2 
Although it’s an existing schematic, It’s the first project were I designed a PCB myself. So far the only mistake I discovered Is that I reversed the feedback pot.
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Rearranged my office for better access to music and noise making stuff. Maybe I will do more with it now that I can get to it more easily!
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Looks great !!
There is jack output on the Ti-83… just saying 
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I love the differently colored leds on summit! How is the cutout for the slider on the roundhouse? I made it a bit wider because in my first version I had to sand it a little bit.
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Slider works perfectly without any adjustment.
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Made the Duck module from @Dud site, untested but should be good (after i finish the power cables off) =)
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back in highschool i got my ti-83 to play low quality 8-bit pcm samples.
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FTFY
(Somehow that wasn’t 20 characters.)
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Cool ! 
I hope everything will work well, because I had some problems (“strange antenna effect”), but in case the solution is to place D1 (amount pot) closer to the circuit and the other diodes
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Ty! doubly fixed it and made it more accurate now =)
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Soldered up a simple white noise and a fuzz when finishing up the Duck module =D
Oh and added a connector to the circle of doom finally =D
Feels good getting back in the groove =)
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This simple PCB I designed to fit a CD4070 (quad 2 input XOR), CD4071 (quad 2-input OR) or CD4081 (quad 2 input AND), which are pin compatible.
The input/output signals are visible via some LEDs.
So obviously I made 3 versions: Logic-[OR|AND|XOR]-o-Matic
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30 hours print finished!
Printing PETG this transparent requires a perfect control of every variable, a very slow print speed, and even then, it doesn’t look that good. I think long term I will look into cutting polycarbonate to achieve the looks I want.
In the 2nd part of the video, you can see how the bridge of the PCB holder is attempted (warning, unpleasant sounds). I had to tweak settings manually before this part of the print started. Scary, but it still works out in the end. The PCB will be attached with self-locking ties.
Opening the holes for the screws was really difficult, and I broke one of the holes. It’s repairable easily, but the holes being so close to the edge are by far the most annoying thing about the kosmo specification. It’s fine for metal but definitely not for plastic.
This plate will be used for a AS3340 VCO module. Not sure yet about the plans, but looking at what exists, 5 pots and 8 jacks seems about right to make one with all the features. Might have to use an add-on dangly PCB and some point-to-point wiring to fit it all.
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I’m expecting to frankenstein multiple existing plans together, compared to yours I think I’ll skip exponential FM and the second V/Oct input, use a big freq pot + fine-tune instead of octave selector, and use hard sync There’s time to build a more advanced version later!
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So you did not want to use supports …?
Supports would be harder to remove than cleaning up bridge sag, and unless built custom, would leave very visible scars on the item, which matters as it’s translucent.
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I don’t think the screw holes being close to the edge is just a KOSMO problem, they need to be near the edge to keep the rails slim to allow the PCB to fit past the rails and leave space on the board for components.
Eurorack mounting holes are further from the left and right edges but the same 3 mm from the top and bottom, to work with Gie-Tec rails.