i see you use the “printing on thin air” technique that a also often employ.
Maybe try making a slot for a second part to slide into, that can be super glued into place?
i see you use the “printing on thin air” technique that a also often employ.
Maybe try making a slot for a second part to slide into, that can be super glued into place?
The best option for a holder like this would probably be Cura tree-like supports, but my printing setup is too customized to work with anything but Prusa slicer. Another option might be to use Meshmixer, though this software is basically abandonware (because Autodesk) with no future.
Given the poor results of PETG transparency even with my best efforts, I dunno to what extent I’m persisting with those techniques anyway
I built a new case. 80cm x 76cm module space. Potentialy double sided. I don’t know where to put it in my man cave yet but i could not stop the urge to build it.
I think you’re just going to have a bad time with this no matter what. If you want to stick to that way of holding the board, I would suggest making the supports on either side T shaped, possibly with some other gusseting. Part of what is happening there is they just aren’t very stiff, so the drag between the nozzle and material being printed and causing things to wobble around.
From another perspective, there’s not really any need to support the full height of the board. It looks like you already have holes on the board. You could have the side supports go up maybe half way and then bolt it though the holes into features printed into the face place. I would think that would be enough to hold the board reasonably well. Hell, most of my modules just have the board hot-glued to the back.
You are always going to run into issues here though, since those are relatively thin supports for the board and 3D prints are weakest between lays. Like Caustic said, two parts would also be a good idea and probably save a lot of headaches.
Bit of a combined Mail Day and Build Progress today.
Just got MiaW’s version of Peaks, Beaks. Think i got lucky and ordered the last 2 in stock XD
Wanted to build one up for today, still need to order the brains for this but it still looks pretty =)
Feels Good Man.
They make LEDs in more colors you know
Finally got round to making some progress on my stripboard poly synth using polykit’s DCO design.
All six voices working without issue. A cursory test of the envgen8c envelope generators suggests they’re working too. Hoping to get those and the 3364 VCAs fully working tomorrow.
Just going to mix down into a single filter for the time being, with a single envelope generator trigger by an OR gate CV combiner - once I’ve got it ‘working’ and I know all my designs are ok, I can build more filters.
going to have a look at the DCO , interesting …
I’m just looking at using a variation of the rp2040 that will allow 8 note poly. Chips not arrived yet, but maybe next week.
Hey! I made one of those! And two with my own self made PCBs.
The one on the left is for my “laser rack” format, the others are Eurorack, of course.
Rich,
where are you sourcing the “moogy” knobs from? JameCo?
More “bossy” than “moogy”, right? For 6.35 mm shafts, Tayda:
For 6 mm shafts, Tayda:
or AliExpress.
https://lovemyswitches.com/knobs/
Has some boss style knobs in sizes that Tayda lacks
When using the output of a clock divider I sometimes only need a short pulse to do things where the step duration would be too long so I built Gate2Trigger-O-Matic, a quad version of the CGS gate to trigger converter as described here.
The upper trace in the picture shows the input gate signal and the lower trace the trigger pulse. As soon as the gate goes high, a short pulse is generated.
Because my digital scope would not boot today I fired up my 40 year old analog one, which is still working nicely!
My Hero #1 built and in the rack… waiting now on parts again for SideKick #1
Love this VCO and the pure sine output - Great Job on the design!
Wow. I am humbled by the content of this thread, as usual.
I got my first PCB from JLC the other day. I had a lot of fun with that whole process. It’s addictive. And it didn’t blow up when I plugged it in so that’s nice!
I do fear that I’ve put the headers too close together. Still waiting on ribbon to arrive. More soon.
Voltage controlled dirt box?
What does it do? Looks very interesting
Ha, nice. Please explain what this is. The box is a capacitor filled with various types of sand or herbs which when tapped affect some oscillation to change?
Did you maybe try tea (ha ha) ?