I used to have chickens. They weren’t much help.
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only with breakfast .
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Well, there was a rooster who pissed off my wife once too often, and was helpful with dinner.
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You should really look into making cases commercially. They sell for wild amounts of money.
EDIT: By “should” I mean you totally could if you wanted to 
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Do you get a box of eggs with the case?
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Do you have a reference for the schematic? Where did you get it from?
actually got it from this forum
it had a lot of likes so i figured it had to be right! one other person asks about method 2 as well. i wonder who made it originally.
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That is a risky assumption. You will find that many people on this forum alone have experienced that a published (often copied) schematic is not necessarily a trustworthy one. So some people have ended up with electronics that just did not work because the designs were flawed. That is why amongst other after some discussion @Doolang started the Verified Stripboard Layouts! and some people started adding annotations like ‘untested’ or ‘tested’ or ‘working’ etc. to the schematics/designs they upload.
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There’s also this thread about that, with a @analogoutput 's verified schematic
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But that’s just a case where the pot in question is a voltage divider, so already producing an internal CV, and you just need to add an external CV to it. I take it the present instance is with a pot acting as a variable resistor, and that’s different and harder.
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Oof. No comment.
Good luck using it for anything 3d printing related.
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I got the Quad VCA up and working tonight. It was a bit of work putting the front panel on before soldering all the pot’s and switches. Best thing is it worked first time. Now I need to make more patch leads.
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Finished the @jkb Spring Reverb that I got from @JUXTAPOZ74:
The wet/dry crossfade curve isn’t great, but otherwise it sounds fantastic!
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So … How would you fix that? 
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Nice! Any suggestions on improvements or pull requests are welcome
What kind of reverb tank are you driving with it? Did you adjusted any resistor values?
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Haven’t looked at enough to have any suggestions, it just seems to turn down the dry signal too quickly and the wet signal up to slowly, resulting in a volume drop in the middle of the range. I just followed the silk screen for the resistor values.
The only tank I’ve tried came out of an old live PA mixer, but I have a smaller one to try from a different old mixer as well as a more current large one from Thonk that I normally use with my Music Thing Modular spring reverb module.
Finally, the resonance range and controllability are great!
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Word to the wise: those switches on the doom need to be grounded, so use ones with a thread. I used smooth ones and ended up soldering them to the front panel, which is not ideal because I can no longer easily take it apart and it doesn’t look fantastic, exactly.