I want the wood grain to show through and have a whitewashed look, something like this but I think it’s a different type of wood, but this general idea
Currently it’s looking like this with one coat
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I have used a whitewash finish from one of the big hardware store brands and had good results. A watery mix of white milk paint will give even better results, in my opinion.
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Also, judging by the photo, you could get away with a wash over that first coat of finish without too much issue. I guess the worst case is you have to sand off the wash and the finish.
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An update on my first case:
These things fill up fast.
Also, I made a patch cable jellyfish.
I am tempted to design a dome with some LED lighting to complete the jellyfish.
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I approve of this idea.
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Add slow up and down and slight sway. Even the slightest motion would look cool - even with a simple counterweight.
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And this is modular, so we would need sway speed and lighting effects with CV.
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It’s also the perfect size for a zoetrope top. Too much?
I liked the SN Voice so much that I built an entire synthesizer around it! I added a glide module, MIDI to CV, Sub-oscillator, Triangle to Sine converter, two VCAs for the sub-osc and tri/sine, Moog CP3 style mixer, and MS-20 filter, plus an AR/AD envelope for FM and filter control. The case is all laser cut and 3D printed of my own design.
Edit: Demo video
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Chapeau! Impressive build, I can clearly see the DIY ethos shining through.
One question on the MIDI to CV - what functionality does it include? MIDI note to V/Oct and note on/off as triggers/gates I suppose? Do you have extra channels or CCs for envelope parameter of filter modulation - that’d be really neat!
Also, the laser cutting, did you do that at home or did you design it and then have it fabricated somewhere?
Cheers
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Thank you very much!
I used this MIDI to CV (and modified it slightly): GitHub - elkayem/midi2cv: Arduino-based MIDI to CV converter
I’m using the V/Oct, Pitch bend, Gate, Velocity, and control/modulation. Just one channel. I am not a big MIDI user.
I did all the laser cutting and 3D printing at home. I have a laser cutter I got a few years ago.
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That looks amazing !!! 
I am also working on a full system atm and I have a question for you then, did you use the “1K resistor on the output” between module ? i(i.e. from the output of the VCO into the mixer, etc…) I know it is not much but I am really running out of space on my design so anything I can remove is a gain.
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Thank you very much. Truth be told…I pretty much just followed schematics and strip board lay-outs as is. So some functions might have them, others don’t as I look through things. I kind of forgot about that as a thing and might try going back through and adding some just to see what that does for me. About the only part of it I did any real design on was the VCA, I just mashed a different trigger section onto the Modular in a Week VCA so it’s normally closed. Works really well, I think.
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The 1k resistor is to limit the current if the output gets shorted to ground or a rail (when plugging and unplugging patch cables). If you’re just hard wiring that output to another section’s input and there’s no chance of its getting connected to a voltage source, it’s not needed. (Unless it’s additionally functioning as part of a voltage divider, diode current limiter, etc.)
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Incredible work! I love it!
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Sample and Hold:
(I love it when a module works right the first time! I mean, I did breadboard it first but…)
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I made dumb errors on the jacks PCB so I need to get those remade, but I kludged connections to the main board and tested, it’s working. Full writeup soon.
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You still haven’t told us what it is…
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I’ve been experimenting with leds, acrylic and mini jack connectors to spice up the signal in and outputs of my modules. These are the 1st trials / results.
I wanted to mount leds very near or maybe ‘inside’ the (in my case mini) jack connector. The leds could e.g. show a signal level or whether a signal is a positive or a negative voltage or what type of waveform an output produces etc.
The acrylic was cut and engraved using a K40 laser (which allows for very precise cuts). The underlying ring, a white one in the top and a black one in the bottom picture was 3D printed.
I made triangular cut outs in the acrylic to stop the colored light of one led from bleeding into the other led’s side.
I should maybe also experiment with white/opaque acrylic. We’ll see where this will end.
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