Oh reverb, never change.
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If youâve got lots of parameters to play with, youâre going to need a lot of screens:
Cheers
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My build of Multi-Filt-O-Matic (a State Variable Filter = LP + BP + HP) is nearing completion. On the left is the v0.2 version, on the right the v0.1 version.
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Thanks =) I still need to test it out with a UV light to see the full neon shiny goodness.
And adding in some LED strips on the back/front. Still, itâs bright enough without it haha
Gotta distract from how bad my patches will be XD
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yeah I do that with size , lol . looks impressive but I am still trying to make it sound like something other than tortured machines .
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I too have built one! Itâs dark here, so Iâll post a picture of the 99% completed PCB tomorrow. See the A litany of dumbassery thread for details on the missing percentage.
I am also too scared to plug in the PSU and test it. Shirley I now need to build a module tester testerâŚâ˝
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I gave my brotherâs kids the fart box a while back, and since they enjoyed it, I decided to put it into a case where they can expand from that, and I can occasionally rotate in different modules for them to experiment with.
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you are the greatest uncle .
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Plugged it in without any chips to see what happened. Checked the +/-12V and 5V pins with the multimeter and they were all correct. Exciting!
Plugged the chips in and powered on again. It lives! 
So I whipped out the Eurorack power breadboard header thing I soldered up the other week and plugged it in. Cue the LCD on the Noodle Toaster displaying cursor blocks and the LEDs on the stripboard failing to light up. A quick check under the PCB, and Iâve only gone and soldered the shrouded header on the wrong way round⌠
Tips for how to use de-soldering braid welcomedâŚ
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Use flux and thatâs basically it 
It often helps to put fresh solder on joints first, so that the heat distribution is a bit better. The surface tension of the liquid metal will help to suck up everything with the de-soldering braid. Lay it on and hold your soldering tip on top of it until you the solder transfer to the braid, turning it from copper-ish to silver-ish.
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Iâve heard, though Iâve never done it, that you can just use pliers to pull the plastic shroud off the pins and put it back on the other way around.
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Didnât even need pliers! Just wiggled it a bit, then gently prised it off with a small flat head, it went back on very easily. Iâd never have thought of trying that, and itâs totally saved me from making a right mess. Thanks! 
P.S. I still need to buy a nut and bolt to attach the heatsink. Iâm assuming M3 will sufficeâŚ?
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You likely donât need to attach it at all, but if you insist, M3 will work.
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A dab of heatsink paste helps
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Finally decided and created a dedicated âcornerâ. I need more space, but thatâs life I guess i can put at least two additional cases on top of it:
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For the heatsinks from Tayda, they have an M3 threaded hole, but they need to attach to the side of the L7805 you have up against the PCB.
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that looks awesome , wish I could wait for paint to dry lol . nice clean set up should be easy to use .
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The trick is to do multiple (paint) jobs in parallel, so that you are forced to wait 
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