There is a substitute for it, I bought a bunch of it last year, but unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what the name was. J13700, NJ13700 or maybe AS13700 something like this?!?!? Anyway, the specs are the same. I’ll check the days.
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Thanks you guys ! I still have a few things to debug before it’s fully fonctional and I will do a schematic. It’s a pretty easy build because DMX console use 5v for dimmer. I used this one as organ donor : Stairville DDC-6 DMX Controller – Thomann France
I will use it with an expression pedal sending +5v to open the light dimmer and a filter
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I was getting sick of my 1978 Drums picking up some serious interference from my digital modules and built a separate power supply for my analog modules following the nozoïd guide. I also 3-D printed knobs, finally. Makes things a heck of a lot nicer.
I really need to build deeper cases…
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Good luck with that, as I recall @fredrik wasn’t too impressed with that PSU idea, and given the warnings on the web page I’d be leery too. If yours works it works, but I like a 7812/7912 design like the FC better.
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I will see how it goes. It does seem a bit sketchy to me. I will probably order some 7812/7912s on my next Tayda order, just in case. I am guessing the issues come down to which factory in China made the power modules and on what day, given how wildly the quality of those can vary.
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Hi, I did a post about the CV to DMX convertor.
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It’s been too cold to hang out in the garage where the soldering iron lives, so I’ve been working on some DSP nonsense in the office:
It’s meant to be a Parametric Chorus, based on a Daisy Seed in a Pod. Next step is to build a better power supply for it to get rid of the high pitched whine. Might also look into controlling it over midi rather than pots/buttons/encoders.
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Sounds really trippy. I would also like to have a chorus in my rack, but I haven’t gotten deep enough into DSP yet. Also I tried the standard chorus in the teensy audio library but I didn’t like that one at all.
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DSP’s fun, just got to wrap your head around imaginary numbers and phasors. I studied it a little many years ago, but picked up a bunch of more recent text books that explain it a lot better and it all makes more sense now.
Cheers
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so what do you think of Electrosmith’s FX sub module , I was thinking of getting it to add some FX to the rack . I have a couple of their VCO’s and I am impressed with those so far .
just noticed that is the daisy . was actually thinking of their dsp sub module.
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The FV-1 looks really cool and I’ve heard a lot of good things. Using the Spincad software you can visually patch your effect together. Even though the daisy one is out of stock theres a few FV-1 development boards out there.
I want a daisy seed really badly. 64 megabytes of RAM 
.
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The FV-1 has been on my radar for a while but I’ve never had my hands on one to play with. My impression is that it’d be good for some standard out of the box effects, but doing more weird and whacky stuff with it might be a bit of a steep learning curve. With the Daisy platform its all C/C++ which to me made it easier to get going.
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I think the Daisy Patch Submodule is an interesting development / alternative to a Daisy Seed combined with a POD or a home brew io-board:
Daisy Patch Submodule is a new Eurorack-focused development platform complete with all necessary components onboard for Eurorack integration, open-source hardware design files, and a companion Eurorack evaluation platform: the patch.Init().
Shipping February 8, 2022.
Especially the audio buffer size is enormous:
- STM32 processor at 480MHz, 96kHz / 24-bit audio, RAM for up to 10 minute audio buffers
- Stereo audio IO, x12 ADC inputs ( 16-bit bipolar CV or potentiometer), x2 CV outputs (12-bit), x2 gate inputs, x2 gate outputs, x12 GPIO
- Flash firmware over USB via open source web programmer
- Support for SDDMC, SPI, UART, I2C, and USB
- FCC / CE Tested and Compliant
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Looks super interesting, but I wish they had made it taller and narrower. Not a concern for Kosmo, really, but it looks like it requires 8HP unless you want to mount it perpendicularly and make a deep module.
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I made this super simple PSU and it works very well (I use a 15 VAC toroidal transformer as input). The exact voltages will vary depending on the 7x12 characteristics, so you need to retune (especially the VCOs) if you are switching modules between cases. I have two PSUs and one is -12.04V and +12.17V, the other one is -12.02V and +12.08V. But I don’t switch VCOs too often 
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Managed to give the new soldering iron a proper test and whipped up this 16 pin eurorack power breadboard header thing. I don’t have a +/- 12V power supply to test it though, so we’ll have to wait and see if I’ve got the LEDs and capacitors round the right way.
I found the TS-BC2 chopped conical tip a bit unwieldy at times, and I’d rather try a proper chisel. Shame that the TS-D24 tip looks so chunky though, I can’t see it being that great for really small pads. Or maybe I just need moar skillz… 
First signs are positive though, whacking it up to 350°C makes soldering lead free solder so much easier!
I would’ve soldered up the 5010 breadboard helper board too, but couldn’t quite figure out which way to put the diodes in. I’ve decided to use diodes rather than the 10R resistors, as I have a couple of spare diodes, but no 10R resistors…
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Isn’t 350°C kind of on the hot side? I have mine at 310°C for lead free Sn96.5 Ag3 Cu0.5 which has a melting point of 221°C on its data sheet. Have to hold it a little while on pads connected to planes, but more or less everything else solders quickly…
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Probably. Never having had the option of whacking the heat up, I decided to try it and see what happened. I’ll try 310°C next time and see how we get on.