They are not plastic they are a type of silicone (TIM thermal interface material) and are specificity made for this application and feature heavily in SMPS designs. Sure they are not as good as thermal paste but they should get the job done just fine.
Edit:lol, what Jos said, I can’t internet today…
Have you tried the drumbs? Should I get one?
yeah its worth getting at least 1 they have a good tweakable classic synth drum sound . still not sure why I got 4 , lol should stay away from ordering stuff that many beers in on a friday night .
dang these sound nice. Love your panel styles too.
I loev tihs faetuer 
yeah ok a typo like usual ,rushing to get shit done late at night lol . but it is fun little button . may put a jack there and try a n/o type momentary foot switch to free up hand .
I may get a couple of these… When my pile of already bought PCBs runs out
I love your panels. Forget the foot switch just stick a ruler under the case with a piezo on it and twang it when you want a roll.
Cool!! Where did you find a 13600 for the drumBs? And can it be replaced by a 13700?
very nice rainbow drum section !
yes for me you can replace 13600 by a 13700
I read somewhere that they differ in their bias currents(?)… not sure what that means, but if it is not important in this case, I am happy
Lately I’ve been more into making music than tinkering, but today I’ve started again. It will be a midi thru box from HERE. The whole thing gets electricity via a USB socket and a normal mobile phone charger. I tried to build a passive midi splitter before, but this only works with 2 devices, i.e. one INPUT and 2 OUTPUTS, after that the signal becomes too weak. With the Midi Thru Box you have 1 IN and 5 OUTS. It is also the first time that I got white IC, the optocouplers are white. It would be a good idea to produce components of a certain assembly in different colors, it would certainly make things easier, and it would be just so beautifully colorful. If you look at the site, please note that version 1 (the slightly larger one) needs a 6n136 and V2 (smaller and handier) needs a 6N137. I didn’t pay attention to it and then looked stupid when the board was almost finished with my last components and then I needed the 137 * naaarf *
Is your SP filter already finished and does yours start to beep at some point if you turn the cutoff and resonaz a little too far? I was expecting something similar to the MicroBrute, but mine whistles pretty hard very quickly.
I have exact this circuit on a printed PCB. Do you have any suggestions?
Besides, I’m proud to have everything on the Eurorack panel.
It’s a great project. Simple design if you ignore Dave’s fixtures and fittings. I’ve seen variations that can run on the 5v MIDI power. There are simpler THRU circuits. Sam has posted his somewhere here. That said this is such a well laid out project that it’s actually a pleasure to make. Odd.
I hadn’t really paid any attention to Dave, before I had looked at his clock divider, but that was it. Only now did I notice his side and how well and in detail his project is explained. Really great.
Of course, I am now interested in Sam’s circuit too!
I build this circuit some time ago on a vero board and a second time on a bread board. Both of them auto oscillate almost all the time. And looking at the schematic, I thought I found the culprit in op-amp IC1b and the 1M resistor R23. If there is only the slightest of signals on pin 5 (caused by the slightest of currents running into the 1M resistor) then the circuit will oscillate. So I changed the resistor values around a bit but so far have not solved the problem. I sent an email to Yusynth, but never got a reply. I found that the diode ladder filter itself (if I decoupled IC 1b) was working as it is supposed to.
I’ve planned to compare the schematic to the strip board version published by @EddyBergman, but haven’t come round to it. His version appears to work.
