I needed some more passive multiples. These are based on a design by MIAW which I adapted a bit. I’m using the PJ341 connector here which does not short the tip of the 3.5 mm jack to GND when you plug it in.
Next is a new PCB for Gate-Delay-O-Matic, an analog gate delay the design of which I took from the M172 module (Roland system 100 modular). I’ve previously made a PCB for the M172’s phase shifter and LFO.
And finally Reset-O-Matic, a mono stable oscillator that will produce a short reset pulse which I can send to all my sequencers, LFO’s, my Time-Warp-O-Matic FX-processor, digitally controlled delays and ratcheteers etc. etc. which I want to be able to reset/(re)start at the same time.
The reset pulse is also available on the flatcable connector and can be transported to other cases via the power backplane PCBs.
My mailbox cannot cope with the multiple small AE deliveries, so the post office began hoarding the packages and they’ve been calling me once a month to pick them up instead.
For the philatelists in our group: This time they bundled the packages in a plastic bag known as “ambulance cover,” which is used when the original packaging got damaged in transit. Nothing damaged here, luckily, I guess they couldn’t even bundke them using elastic bands!
It’s a battery-powered device for measuring components using a resonant circuit, no idea whether it can music (verb), but look at that funky knob with rotary switched bezel:
Everything here is definitely RF range so not just a matter of tuning down a bit.
Besides, the vintage components and layout inside are so beautiful that I don’t want to mess with it.
Go Ciat-Lombarde with it and mix two of them together to get an audio beat fraquency. Two tones together on the output in a simple mixer (e.g., a diode) and two tones separately available with a balanced mixer.
I’ve built two of these envelopes which I never got working properly. These were the only ones of the classic Erica DIY modules, that gave me trouble.. much more complicated builds (like the DIY Bassline) worked right away.
I hope you have more success building them, then I had! Your post reminds me to get them out of the drawer and have a look at them again
A lot of things have kept me away from the hobby in the recent months, but an Aliexpress deal (i paid €115 total for what’s in the box + 50 in planned add-ons) has greatly expanded my potential for making things.
Despite what the manual says, my version has no laser–i don’t want to touch this dangerous stuff without an enclosure and interlock system. A spindle should be all i need to get use of this 3018. Here’s hoping i manage to dial it in good enough i can engrave single-sided PCBs to make small circuits!
I’ve tried a few PCB makes with my 3018 and found that the easiest method for me was to cover the copper with black pen and then scribe out the edge of the traces using a diamond scribing bit mounted in a spring loaded vinyl cutting collet mounted in the motor collet. (The motor is not running) The 3018 X and Y just drag the tip through the black ink exposing the copper at the outside edge of each trace. Z is used to lift the scribing tool between sections. which is then removed in the ferric chloride bath very quickly as only a fraction of the copper needs to go. Corrections are done by hand, again using the diamond scribe mounted in a hand tool holder.
I’ve only done this for surface mount designs as I have a jinx that, so far, wrecks the surface when I drill holes or try to insert via.
These are the vinyl cutters, diamond scribes and vinyl drag collet I’ve been using. I tried using vinyl over the copper but found the process of removing sections too fiddly and blurred many edges.
Looking forward to seeing your results. I find the 3018 very easy to work with and have upgraded using a 3040 extension, adding an air blower and a good dust collection rigged though a cycloidal bucket to an old vacuum) so I can use it for guitar work.
I also use lasers on the 3018 and a larger frame I built with an added 5th axis rotator module and spent ages trying to find a cheap source of protective plastic when a lighting engineer pal tossed me some lighting gels which I stick to clear acrylic.
Hi Jos, I’ll dig out a few pics. My set-up is currently on loan to the local makerspace. I’ll hopefully be there next week.
In the meantime I’ve been through a few designs for dust collection and my current favourite for effective and adaptable use is below; I got the design from a notaps video. Mine is about half the size as I do very little large piece work these days. I was sent a brush/shoe adapter which clogged all the time, the brushes got full of crap and I found it easier to use a box funnel to one side while running and disconnect the hose to clean up after.
The blower began as a cake decoration nozzle hooked up to a DC air pump, the nozzle was fine with the laser but destroyed itself after a brief bump with a large endmill. I melted a smaller shape into the end of the tubing which works better. The tubing I used was aquarium air hose which I have a tonne of after making pneumatic robot octopi and air muscle demos. It’s very flexible so the blowing end is attached to a thick wire with silicone and a cable grip so you can point the air where you want it.
