It’s not supposed to look like that? 
I’ve had better luck with the u8g2 library.
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What voltage is te SSD1306 you have and what is the voltage of the signals from the MMU?
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Good question, I have it from eBay with no documentation… I tried 3.3 and 5V from the nano, but maybe I tried 5V first and smoked it?
Does it not say on the back of the SSD?
Is Q1 a 1117 voltage regulator? Can you see text on it?
I’m not sure if that can help but i found this
Power supply
o VDD = 1.65V to 3.3V for IC logic
o VCC = 7V to 15V for Panel driving
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These things normally have a 3.3V regulator (e.g. XC6206) that’ll take a 5V input.
E.g.
http://www.lcdwiki.com/res/MC130GX_VX/1.3inch_OLED_MC130VX_Schematic.pdf
That’s probably Q1 on yours.
Added: The one I have here has a chip marked 662K, which is an XC6206 marking apparently. Doesn’t look like yours, there are more parts on mine. But only the one 3-pin package which is the regulator.
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The operating voltage of the SSD1306 controller is from 1.65V to 3.3V while OLED panel requires 7V to 15V supply voltage. All these different power requirements are sufficed using internal charge pump circuitry. This makes it possible to connect it to an Arduino or any 5V logic microcontroller easily without using any logic level converter.
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Christmas has come early! I’ve built too many synths lately, and can’t justify any more - but pedals… that’s another story…
Dropped by the hardware store this morning to pick up some material for sanding, priming and painting. This should be fun!
Cheers
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I just tried the u8g2 library (just because I installed platformio, not because I thought it would help) and it worked!!
There is still some noise on the right edge, but I guess I can fix it with just another library xD
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Or a small piece of black tape 
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I had no time at the weekend to write proper docs for this - sorry! Here’s a 2 minute build guide.
Add all the capacitors/resistor on the front of the PCB(same side as the pot outlines) before doing anything else.
Double check your connections and solder joints as you can’t access these later.
Populate the rest of the board except from the pots.
The bottom 3 attenuator pots are 100k and can be soldered directly to the board. The middle row of 4(Coarse tune, fine tune, bitcrush, glide) pots are 10k and should have the outside pins reversed. The top 2 are also 10k and are technically backwards, however in reality this doesn’t matter because they are scanning through the wavetable and don’t ‘feel’ backwards.
The circle pad on the jack pins is ground.
All of the jacks can be soldered directly to their respective pins except from the glide switch which I’ve forgotten how to wire. It involves a jack and an SPST switch IIRC but I’ll double check tonight when I have access to the synth and my KiCad files.
Edit: @BlackDeath the glide input is a switch jack normalled to 5v. You can probably piggyback 5v off the pins of one of the control pots.
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I recognize that joystick footprint (;
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I just got an arduinoboy pro from catskull electronics. This is a setup I have, which sends midi messages from my daw through the keystep pro, to the arduinoboy. This thing was pretty easy to setup, had to figure out that you have to press the button to get it in the right mode for mGB.
Audio from video is flashman’s stage from megaman 2:
Here are some others i did tonight of varying quality. I tried various setups, and in many of them, the reverb is just very muddy, so sorry about that!
Heatman:
Wiley’s Castle:
Spark Mandrill:
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Got an Ataraxic Iteritas in a trade!
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Hey Sono - can you send me the schematic so I can figure out the switch? I want to get this puppy finished this week!
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Use a switched jack and connect the tip to the round pin on the board, and the tip normal to somewhere on the 5V rail. You can pick up 5V from one of the pins of one of the pots - use a multimeter.
The schematic is on GitHub:
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