If it was me I would’ve just pulled the plastic shroud off the header and replaced it the other way around.
For future reference: When in doubt, do a continuity check. The +12 V pins connect to the + side of one 10 µF cap, the -12 V pins (red stripe side) connect to the - side of the other 10 µF cap. (Probably through a resistor or a diode, so check continuity from pins to resistors/diodes and then from other side of resistors/diodes to caps.) (Also this doesn’t work if you installed the caps backwards.)
I am also considering dremeling out the key on the shroud and super gluing a piece of plastic on the other side. It seems like I would more more likely to damage things by pulling off the whole shroud. Maybe if I had a heat gun…
I’ll need to take special note of how to find the +12v side on a module - I ‘thought’ I had applied this to the problem already, but I must have gotten myself confused.
This works for testing purposes - and huzza, it does work! I’ll fix it - I promise.
Weird problem with mine. On the 2/4/3 switch 3 and 4 work. 2 does 4 steps.
Resistor checks out to 2.7k.
Continuity checks out between SW3, D6, 4017 & the 313 replacement and continuity checks out between the connections between the 4017 and 313, and everything tones out correctly on the SW3 pcb pads when I flip the switch around.
Could it somehow be a problem that i used the 2 pin bicolor leds?
Huh…So it will work properly if I clip the scope lead anywhere in the D2, D5, R8, D4, D6 junction. however a placebo alligator clip did not fool it into working.
Hook a clock up to it on 4 step mode and see if you can trace the trigger signal from pin 4 of the 4017 back to the reset. Gotta be getting blocked or grounded somewhere?
Ok, i’m gonna have to hack up an aligator cable and make some kind of franken 1/4" to alligator clip cable then because I lack even a simple function generator at my test bench and the scope at the rack only has 1/4" inputs.
nah. i made a franken thing anyways, i’m gonna need it. Honestly I should probably just find the cheapest scope leads I can find on ebay and make it up nice.
SO… I see a high signal on one side of the switch when the light is on step 3, however that’s not the side of the switch that is active.
On the other side of the switch, I don’t get a reset until after step 4.
I have check and tripple checked conductivity between the pins of the switch themselves and pins 4&7 themselves (not the socket pin) on the 4017
