I ordered some more of these with my last order, if anybody wants a copy. @SYNTHGUY57?
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I’d buy one.
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Sign me up!..
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Are they still with the MAX313 or did you make the changes to use a more readily available (and reasonably priced) chip? Or is there a group buy on the 313’s to go with them?
Though…checking octopart I see both Mouser and Digikey have the DIP for about $7. So not too bad. So I wouldn’t mind getting my hands on one to build up.
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Yeah I went to change to one of the other chips, but then saw a DG212 (less than $1) can swap right in. I’m going to try one out when they get here and see if there is any noticeable difference. Supposedly the 313 is better cause it can switch signals up to the rail voltage while the 212 is slightly less.
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not sure CTorp, ? wow new one to me . IDK and sorry if it posted on yours . wpw
wow, did not know this happened and no I do not have the gerber files, very screwy, sorry again,
If the DG212 proves to work, I definitely want one… err… two ?
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I have one MAX313 version. I’m easy for a second MAX313 version! Judging by the replies it’s not hard at all to get at a reasonable price.
-Fumu / Esopus
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@eric, @KardashevTypeII the boards get here Monday, I know it will still work with the max313 but I need to check with the dg212! I forgot to order them last order but mouser still has time to beat the pcbs here 
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Might try to make a Voltage controlled SPDT with one of these or a DG409. Where incoming gate signals closes a switch
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So I saw @analogoutput suggesting that if there’s a revision that the orientation of the power connector is put into the silkscreen… However that doesnt help me right now. P:
Which side is positive/negative? I’m guessing the right is negative given the trace appears to go to the negative of the 10uf polarised cap
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Be careful on those transistors too. That footprint really sucks and I don’t use it anymore
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Thank you for the pic. I’m not sure if I’ve been installing my headers the wrong way (consistently however). So does that mean negative on the right?
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Yep, neg on the right!
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Oh good I have been installing my headers the right way!
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Is this IC good for the Johnson Counter?
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Well…mine is working. And I got my on-off-on switch at lunch today and wired it in…but it’s only doing 4 steps.
The reset push button works, and feeding a second LFO into the reset jack works.
But the 2/4/3 step switch does nothing.
Patching the #3 output to the reset also doesn’t work to turn it to 2 steps. But that was a bit iffy if it would work or not.
Broke out the DMM and confirmed that the continuity is changing as expected at the pads on the PCB when I flip the switch. And confirmed I’m not missing any solder connections and the diode is the right way around.
Seems like it’s just not getting a high enough voltage off the mechanical switch. I used a 3k instead of 2.7k resistor for R12 on the LED’s (because I didn’t feel like digging through a pile of loose resistors for a 2.7k.) and I used blue LED’s instead of red…so I’m thinking I may have to swap to a different resistor there to get a good enough signal for the reset. Will have to do more probing and measuring tonight.
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