Do you have a common anode or common cathode display?
Common Cathode display.
So I re-created that issue you see. Im just running an astable 555 output into the tuner, and its all wonkey.
The closest i could get was a 522.388Hz ish. But its close enough to be considered a C.
For reference:
C5 523.25
Ill mess about with the pinouts and let you know if i find anything. I only glanced at the code to see what the input pin was, but ill dig into that more as well.
2 Likes
Lol, maybe i should put some resistors in there.
1 Like
Interesting! So maybe it’s not me?
Sorry bud, after checking the pinout in the code vs what i had, the issue was entirely just the digital pins were all in the wrong place.
All i did was look at that ref image @antoine.pasde2 posted, and compared to the code.
Specifically lookin at the initialized vars at the top:
If you already have everything soldered up, it might just be easier to change the digital pins in the code. trace the routes of the pins to the digital pins of the arduino. LEDE should be pin 2, the bottom left in the image and so on.
If you need some help tracking it down, i offer my assistance if i can.
2 Likes
By George, I got it! Edited the code accordingly. Thanks for the help, Caustic!
Here’s the new sketch if it helps anyone with the same problem.
1 Like
Technically, yes. You just need to make sure you wire up the tip and ground pins to the right pads on the board. But the board itself is going to be a little flimsy as it’ll only be held in place by a single row of header pins. You’ll need to come up with a way of keeping it rigid or risk damaging the main board of you give your case a knock. You could also make a custom cable to connect to the header pins directly to the sockets and leave out the connector board entirely.
Personally, I would just order some box sockets. The truconnect ones Sam recommends in the BOM work a treat, and I think the spacing is correct for fancy Switchcraft ones too, but I haven’t actually tried one to see if they fit.
2 Likes
I highly suggest just ordering some box style jacks instead.
They available from many sources if you are in the US.
And rather cheap on Tayda!
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/6-35mm-1-4-plugs-jacks/6-35mm-1-4-stereo-phone-jack.html
1 Like
Thanks guys. Another question. I plan on making a module to convert 1/4” plugs to 1/8 to let my kosmo talk to my other gear. I’m assuming I can just wire two sized sockets together without any circuitry?
I’ll order some box sockets and use these for my plug converter
I list both in the Cheap Components Thread. I use the ones @CTorp is using here, but they are more pricey, and as mentioned, they arnt as good for PCB mount style. They are sturdy, and can totally be used for other projects like a stripboard layout. I find they are easier to solder wires to, since the holes are huge.
Yes, that will work. On some of my DIY modules, I’ve actually just put both sizes on the panel.
1 Like
came accross an oddity with my VCO
sent some stepped random from the LFO and got nice clean jumping notes
tried sending the same thing from my eurorack and sounds like its lathered in slew
sending the random through a mixer that sends a stereo out through phones and then im taking a mono jack from the phones output, some kind of stereo/mono thingy is all i can imagine is going wrong
i can pan in the mixer, but doesnt really make much of a different
its all wobbly like ive got mega portamento on it, so much so that it hardly reaches any of the notes
what do we reckon?
2 Likes
AC coupled path? A series capacitor in the CV path will do weird things to a stepped signal; as an example, here’s a square wave before and after it’s made it through a series capacitor:
The exact shape will depend on the capacitance and the input and output impedances involved, but the general idea is the same – the signal will trend towards 0 V, since the DC component is filtered away.
3 Likes
yeah that looks like what it sounds like, drifts when unplugged back to 0v
so what is an AC coupled path and how might i avoid it? i planned on using my euro for sequencing before the midi converter arrives
2 Likes
It’s probably your mixer being built for audio rather than CV. I pretty much only use crap I’ve built myself 
so cannot give you any concrete advice, but you need to get the signal more directly from your eurorack to the VCO (longer cable? 
)
Or you might be able to change the settings for your mixer; a random googling brought up what looks like a pretty good article on AC coupling vs DC coupling in mixers, and they mention that some mixers let you change this:
https://learningmodular.com/choosing-utility-mixers-for-your-modular/
2 Likes