sorry i just go in his site and it’s a new version code,
here’s the first one what i use
https://www.mediafire.com/file/zr9frx09ewuxfcm/BIG_BUTTON.ino/file
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I know that Sam has his and then there was some rework done on this thread and I also found another version of it that someone reworked. Just curious which one people were using and got it working. Do you know if that switch I put a link up to will be OK to use? Seems like I see a much different 6 pole switch being used by others. Thanks for the help.
for the rotary switch it’seems good
if you use my link for the code : led go to pin 18 (A4)
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Alright, this has taken longer than I meant it to!
Clearly for a first project, I’ve bit off more than I can immediately chew, and I’m back with another plea for help.
Naturally I assembled everything, powered it up, aaaaand nothing. No lights (except on the Arduino) so I’m tracing the circuit as best I can to make sure things are connected up properly.
I have this 30mm led adafruit arcade button, and it’s confusing me endlessly.
When the button is pushed, the two pins on the left close a circuit… that’s as far as I’ve gotten. I’m really not sure which pins to connect to which wires. The wiring drawing on the website isn’t making anything clearer for me.
Any ideas?
The drawing is useless for figuring out the connections, but from the video it looks like the two terminals you have your blue and green wires connected to are the ones for the switch. The ones you have the red and black wires connected to are for the LED.
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Rookie mistake #1 I’ve discovered: that black wire (bottom right) wasn’t actually running to ground. Having remedied that, when powered, the arcade button is always illuminated. From the video I don’t think that’s the desired effect.
A real wiring diagram would be sooo helpful!
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Its funny how often that happens. Things like this help us remember though!
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if not made a continuity test on another button (or this one but without welding wire)
actually it’s just a x2 switch
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@dirty_g should probe it, but I don’t think it’s a single switch with four contacts. I think the switch is the grey part and it is removable and the LED (or incandescent light) is connected to the other two pins embedded in the red plastic.
The + and - signs and arrows in the grey plastic are perplexing though.
as I said before, the better it is to test it empty, to really see what the pins correspond to
(with a pilot light or a multimeter)
Yeah, your multimeter is your friend in situations like this, but as Antoine says the grey thing is most likely the actual switch, and the others (which the + and − point to) are the LED connectors (which expect 3-5 V). If you watch the product video, they’ve connected the LEDs and Limor says “these are the switch part” while touching the other two:
(would admittedly be nicer if they’d marked that on the drawings too, but…)
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Aaaand I have a Nano Every, which is, in fact, different than the Nano!
Haha guys, I’ve got a lot to learn!
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Well, one less thing than yesterday! 
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The wav trigger I made works.
Unfortunately I only know this from plugging in a cv keyboard!
But the good news is I did end up, by experimenting making connections with a wire, triggering a sound from my big button device.
The bad news is I can’t trigger it by pushing the button. I discovered I’ve wired 5/6 output jacks backwards. It’s a good thing I wired one up “wrong” or I might not have discovered that it was actually correct and the rest were wrong. Luckily, I’m enjoying the process.
Once my jacks are wired up right I’m hoping beyond all hopes I can get sound from the beast, but I suspect something about the rotary switch isn’t right. Anybody able to share some tips about testing it? My only tool is a multimeter, no logic probe… although I’ve realized I need to order one.
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Multimeter will tell you what your logic probe would only more, so that’s good. As usual, triple check connections, triple check shorts and bridges.
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Okay, here’s where I’ve got to…
The jacks are all wired properly now. I can trigger them by shorting them with a wire and manually connecting a positive current to their positive terminals. The LEDs even work!
Here’s what doesn’t work: anything else.
Well, not quite true. The bank button does toggle the BIG BUTTON’s led on and off.
But mashing the big button doesn’t trigger anything. In fact, it just flashes oddly when I tap it. Almost like it’s trying to tell me something.
I made a big ugly mess of the rotary switch, and I’m wondering, does it matter which end of the rotary switch is positive and which is negative? Or would switching those just reverse the positions of which jacks it is supposed to be connected to?
Here’s a pic of my rotary mess… getting pretty stumped at this point. Help would be appreciated!
reverify everything with the diagram, there must be other errors, and the red wire of the rotary switch (very stripped) seems badly welded
“The bank button does toggle the BIG BUTTON’s led on and off.” it’s normal
for the rotary switch, the GND is the black wire on schem
on the big button switch there is the green wire who go to A5 and the input trigger jack (on your pic it’s seem there is only one)
is it work with clock in ?
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I left the trigger jack out. Is this integral?
no your big button would work without the trigger in jack (it’s the same thing that the manual big button)
but with absolutely a clock signal !!!
where are you at ?