AO Dual Quantizer

From the dac/ino build notes:

Silkscreen error

In version 1.3, the silkscreened reference numbers R28 and R29 are reversed. R29 is the 1M between R28 and R30. Fixed in version 1.31.

That’s badly worded, the reference numbers and values both are reversed. The corrected version looks like this:

So indeed you should switch those two resistors.


THAT DID THE TRICK! And yeah I was combing through every bit of documentation and saw that. Thank you for your help. This will be in my case on the next stream.


Whisky tiiiime! Cant wait to see it working =D GJ!


Seriously, thank you all for your help. This one was a tricky one, but stoked to see it working.


Psh dont thank me lol. in hacking terms id say we bashed it with our dual-core CPU(aka brains).
It was fun trouble shooting with you and fred. Knew you’d get it eventually.

BTW the Talisker is doing me some good. My typing has improved? =D

1 Like

Here’s my Dual Quantizer (thx again @analogoutput for this module)

A little jam in harmonic minor :slight_smile:


I think this afternoon I will remove the positivizer (maybe make it a module later) because by testing it, I don’t really think of using the Quantizer with LFOs which just makes a scale that goes up and down not very interesting for my taste , and the 8 step arduino seuencer has 2 CV outputs and I could not use the 2nd with the quantizer in my patch (with 2 : interresting possibility to make some double notes synchronized and tuned: mini chords).

Other thing, i tested with different white noise source for S&H, and that’s don’t work well, that’s make a “crunch” sound on each triggering :frowning:

that’s not what interested me in this module because I already have an S&H but it’s still annoying.

1 Like

You have to use a short enough trigger for that. It samples the input as long as the trigger input is high, so if that’s a gate more than a few tens of ms long it’ll try to quantize several random values during that time. If you run your clock through a gate-to-trigger that should fix it. “Trigger” might be the wrong label for that input, it’s a sample gate really. Or of course you can just use your other S&H, and quantize the output of that.

I tested it with the “Big button” trigger sequencer, isn’t that a good signal for that?

I have no idea… But it should work without “crunching” if the input is narrow enough. Unless there’s something else going on I don’t understand. It works for me. Been a while but I think I used the trigger out from the Gate Grinder.


at 4:26

1 Like

i try to attenuated the white noise with attenuator, tested 3 different noise signal, different trigger, !? it change the note S&H “work” but with a big noise, and it work with LFO and CV, i don’t understand, but i go to check the circuit and the solder …

I took a look, removed the Positivizer and re-did some soldering.
Now the S&H works fine with all the noise sources I have, and the big button for the trigger. Did I not test it correctly or a bad solder …?

But now there is a strange thing, the 2nd quantizer is not working well with the 8 step arduino sequencer CV out.
If I increase the pitch potentiometer of one step, nothing happens for a long time until I have just the end of the scale.
As if up to about 3/4 V he considered that as 0V, while I send him 0 to 5V
I hardly understand
Otherwise with another CV source (joystick module or beatstep) the 2 quantizers work fine.

Strange …

1 Like

Tayda was sold out on A-1893, so i went with A-1643. Unfortunately when I got them it turns out there’s no limiting yoke on that model. The most elegant solution I can think of is to wire the postions opposite each other together so that when you turn past 6 on the ‘Banks’ you’re back at 1.

EDIT: Kinda cool that the space between the rotary switch pins is more or less exactly the length of an 1/8w resistor…


Perhaps I can get some help… I am using these jack sockets:

From the datasheet:

Looking at the first of the model no. PJ629HAN - 1 seems to be S, but what pole are T and TN?


Shucks. I had it right the first time.


I just noticed the edit — yeah, that is nice! Normally I use 1/4 W resistors but I might have to get some 1/8 W next time I need a rotary switch. Definitely neater that way.


Some small amounts of progress - but not much. Both of the potentiometers seem to add their effect together. The toggles and rotary switches seem to do nothing at all except for the occasional flutter in the signal.

I cleaned up some of the resin around the pads - and some of my wires are getting a little crispy after moving them around so many times.

Any suggestions at all?

Talk me through where on the PCB the input CVs and pots are connected.

Hopefully an illustrator file is worth a thousand words!

1 Like