On nine consecutive days I checked Tayda for 3PDT toggle switches.
On nine consecutive days they were out of stock.
On the ninth day I gave in and ordered a lot of five from an Amazon vendor, even though I only need one, and ordered the rest of what I need from Tayda.
And on the tenth day… well, you know this story, right?
Ok, episode two of my 8038 audio generator build. It powers up and oscillates, but I cannot get it to go above 350 Hz or so, and if I plug in a fine adjust pot it goes really weird, so there’s definitely some dumbassery going on here. Will update this thread when I’ve figured out what exactly 
EDIT: Found it. The connectors were mislabeled, so I was trying to dial in the full frequency range with the fine adjustment (kind of obvious in hindsight 
). There is still some weirdness near the lower end, but that’s for another day.
There’s never a hammer when you need one.
Perfect Fit. [Fill2-20]
Screwing a couple of PCB together in a circuit sandwich for my latest project. For hours, I was troubleshooting a problem with the micro SD card. I pulled it out of the slot, looked at it, and it was split in twain.
Welp, at least that explains the problem!
i have questions
OK, so spent a pleasant afternoon breadboarding a circuit, decided to put it on Veroboard…
all going to plan when I went to put the TL074 in I realised I had soldered a 16 pin socket in at the start and referenced the other components from the socket.
Old wire wrap ic socket to the rescue to nudge the ic legs to the relevant holes.
Circuit works fine but valuable lesson learnt.
Very nice, tidy build. Mostly. 
I wish my entries in this thread were as elegant as this.
ouch thats a tedious job in the first place
I put the power supply I’m intending to use for modules in a cigar box to keep the mains voltage away from contact; there’s a fused power switch on the side. The +12v, ground, and -12v wires come out through a hole in the lid. Then I put together a little stripboard breakout for the proper 2x8 header, with a 7805 to provide the +5v rail and nice little LEDs for each voltage. Had to re-look up the 7805 pinout and the cap values, and then figure out the stripboard cuts and jumpers to move the 5v and ground lines around. But it went together well enough.
Soldered it up and clipped it to the PS wires, and the 5v led doesn’t come on. I probe around, and the +5v pins have +11v on 'em. Yup, I put the 7805 in backwards after checking the pinout repeatedly. I’m debating desoldering the 7805 to repair it or building a new one and leaving this as a monument to hubris.
Whoosie! Just left my soldering iron to heat up and took gf a cuppa tea… came back to a plasticy smell.
Yep, I just melted part of the irons power cable.
Thankfully dad caught it and I have several irons. Not all is lost =D
Turn the knob left, it pans right. Turn the knob right, it pans left.
Where by “the knob” I mean any of four 9mm dual gang PCB mounted potentiometers, available from England for a price of don’t ask.
Or I could unsolder these. How hard could it be? Stop laughing.
I’ve used the smd removal stuff from Amazon. Keeps everything liquid for a really long time.
Ever tried bismuth?
Pretty sure this is Bi-In-Pb-Sn (they also offer lead-free). Melts at 58C/136F and seems workable for 20-30 seconds. I ran into the same problems as you with some dual gang pots that were too expensive to lose. This stuff works great.
