2399 triple splashback delay

ok klaus noted! I did it on black because I thought the labelling was a lot clearer, but I guess you cant see the ground as much thats a fair point! but what if I circled the ground connections maybe???

yeah that could help. but also the black pcb looks much dirtier when soldered, because of the flux. at least mine does, but yeah, that’s just an optical issue :wink:

Just putting a vote in for black PCBs :grinning:

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noted! yeah I was gunna go for white but that looks father sad when soldered! interesting about the black!!

to new honest I was going to do half and half. effects and such black. and some yellow. just some look better black some look better yellow. maybe ill change them up again!

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One PCB, then a fourth delay stage on vero board, just because there was room for a few more knobs on the 3U width panel, and because soldering is fun!

There’s a 3PDT switch for the hi/lo capacitors on stages 2, 3 & 4.

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A vote here for transparent PCBs please - completely clear, so you can follow the traces easily…

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Hey, how about some consistency. Cannot have half yellow, half black :smiley: (unless the point is to make things look like a giant bumblebee of sorts :honeybee:)

(Klaus is of course right that the semi-transparent alternatives are much nicer when building & trouble-shooting, but on the other hand your artwork looks better on black. Tradeoffs, tradeoffs…)

(Also, yellow is my thing so maybe I should encourage you to use something else? But so is very tiny PCBs so it’s not like anyone will mix us up :smiley:)

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So that’s enough panel porn for at least a month or two :upside_down_face: But I’m curious – how do you make these uberprofessional panels? Are you doing the full moog thing with shaping and anodizing and etching, or is there some clever cheating involved? :smiley:

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I use pre-anodised 1.5mm aluminium, and machine the lettering into the surface using a CNC router with 0.4mm cutter. Trick is to only machine a tiny amount, literally like 0.05mm. Then the holes and perimeter are cut with a 3mm cutter, and the edges folded with a sheet metal folder.

The PCB brackets are done in plain aluminium.

It’s time consuming getting the machining height exactly right, but the results are great, and the panels are pretty indestructible.

I really must make a video showing the whole process - it took a while to refine it, so would be good to pass on the info in case it’s of use to anyone.

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I ordered mine two weeks ago, no tracking, and as of today it still says

Your order is confirmed

We’ve accepted your order, and we’re getting it ready. Come back to this page for updates on your shipment status.

Does this actually mean they still haven’t shipped it yet, or am I taking it too literally? I wrote to 100% and am waiting to hear back.

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You’re taking it too literally. Page won’t update.

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yeah it would have been sent on the day. I packed enough that they would be sent on the day. so definitely out there. hope they turn up sharpish!

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yeah my stuff was a little weird reading the tracking at first , but once it got to the states and FedEx had it in their possession the tracking got better and my order is slowly moving across the eastern part of the country .

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Sam,

I vote for mostly yellow PCB’s but a little difference now and again aren’t really something I’m bothered by.

-Fumu / Esopus

I vote for what ever color you want , just keep making them !

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I think I found the issue: I had no socket for the opamp and used pin headers instead and the connection was not good! Now I soldered the IC to the headers and everything is fine! XD

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Maybe it’s to be expected if you order a “delay”, ha ha…

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is there a source for transparent pcbs? haha I mean maybe there is transparent silkscreen available somewhere

aaaah garbabey nice. some fart squelches in there hahahaha love it