2399 triple splashback delay

I’ve mentioned it on Sam’s Patreon, but might as well link to the full interview here too, or at least a PDF of it with some wonky editing in places. There’s some fun bits in there about touring with pre-MIDI gear that barely stayed in tune in the studio… (so definitely some similarities to Sam’s adventures 40 years later :smiley:).

(my favourite detail might be the drummer’s use of multimeters on stage to dial in the right tempo on his CR-78…)

EDIT: Seems I’ve mentioned that here as well, last time we ended up in early 1981.

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Keith Emerson had a frequency counter on his Moog to check everything was definitely in tune before launching into a solo…

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RIGHT!!! ok here we go! spent the last couple of hours working out the best way to do this. so I think the best is a switch where you can bypass The dry signal completely from the module. everything else works, its just completely wet. and also slightly louder (you lose a gain stage, which could be good for some! as I know it can be a faff to get the raunchiest sound with very hot signals)

so snip the TOP leg of R27. and to bypass wire a wire from the resistor to the positive leg of C31.

this in essence taps off the first delay before the mix knob, but doesn’t effect the feedback as it still goes back into itself, it just listens to the first delay in a different step in its circuit.
(check the picture, ignore the yellow jumper that was from a previous attempt that didn’t work)

now if you want to add a switch, it’ll be easy for you squirrel mc squirrely cus your using your own panels but for people who want to do the mod on the Kosmo panel, there’s a gap you can squeeze a Single pole dual throw (SPDT) mini toggle switch. be sure to get the hole in the right place (I did it by eye but was quite lucky!!!) you solder the wires like

MIDDLE LEG OF SWITCH TO SNIPPED TOP LEG OF R27.
then first leg of switch to POSITIVE LEG OF C31
then 3rd leg of switch to the pad that R27 used to be connected to.

you can swap which leg 1sr and 3rd is which depending if you want the switch to be fully wet engage or fully wet disable!

good luck! I hope that helps

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Amazing, thanks so much for this, hugely appreciated!
Best wishes,
Squirrel McSquirrelly.

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let me know how it goes! the delay is surprisingly much longer than I thought when its completely wet and playing into it!!! by the way have you made the 5u panel yet perchance? I may ask kindly to purchase a copy! try and shoe horn it into my club of the knobs 15!!! if that’s cool man.

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one more pic for reference

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the way its setup it may be hard to add a mix knob into the splashback. big mumma’s on its way tho haha

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Sure, will let you know how it goes - I’m working on it the wiring this evening, looking forward to making the adjustment you’ve recommended. I’ve made a prototype 5U panel (plain aluminium), and will make the ‘proper one’ once everything’s finalised. Would be very happy to make one for you - will send a photo once the first one’s done…

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Yes! Totally works! It’s really nice to be able to remove the dry signal when it’s crunching away in ‘garbage mode’, so thanks very much for that.

Could do with just one more switch to make the panel symmetrical! Always just one more switch…

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Just put the switch in now and you can figure out what it’s for later

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good! ok had a think of the other switch! control invert for the last 2 delays. ill figure out where you need to put it later. itll basically make the control go backwards from the main delay. but I don’t know how useful it will be I have an idea of how it could be done easy with a couple of snips of resistors. will check later!!! maybe dont commit to a nice label yet haha

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Okay, that sounds fantastic, will reserve that switch space! Had thought it could maybe reintroduce the forbidden C22, but your idea sounds much better.

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I have just enough room for a 4PDT if it takes more than two resistors…

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A VIDEO OF THE FULL WET MODIFICATION

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it shouldn’t take more than a single pole. the plan is (I haven’t tried yet, not sure when! but give it a gooo)

so my thinking is if you snip the potentiometer leg thats connected to DLY2B1 that will disconnect the cv inputs of the second and third delay from the first delay.

Then to invert the voltage going to them so they react inversely to delay 1, wire a wire from that leg on the pot to pin 8 of the Tl074. then if you want to make a switch I guess make it so you can select between that and normal. no idea how it will work usefully.

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Cool, will try this…

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Voltage from pin 8 is inverted, but has to be at a higher range to work I think?

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aaah shucks yeah I just realised, yeah thats not going to work at all. sorry. its gunna be complicated to get this circuit to do it inversely, will need to make an offset to offset it up. will need another opamp to make it happen on this one!

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No worries, it’s not essential! Thanks for your help anyway, and let me know when you’ve finished the big one!

Thanks, @lookmumnocomputer! I so love that you took the time to figure this out and even made a video! With lots of gratuitous noise to boot :heart_eyes:.

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