1183/1184 Quad VCA BOM

[BlackDeath]

Is there an equivalent to the BZX55C2V0 on Tayda?

[fredrik]

It’s a 2.0 V zener, which Tayda doesn’t have. No time to stare at the schematics right now, but last time I did I seem to have convinced myself that the exact voltage isn’t that important:

1183/1184 Quad VCA BOM

Yes, the R0G bit is just a packaging code (R0 for reel which doesn’t matter unless you buy 10,000 of them, G for halogen free). Any 2 V zener will work here (1N4615, 1N4679, BZX55C2V0, BZX79C2V0, …) or if you cannot find 2 V anything from 1.9 to 2.4 V or so should be fine (and the diode will usually don’t do anything, it’s there’s to keep the CV to the chip within spec, in case you try to overwhelm the circuitry…) EDIT: Added some alternatives.

and Tayda has a 2.4 V zener:

1N5221B ZENER DIODE 1/2W 2.4V

[BlackDeath]

Thank you, Mister Wizard!

[willow2x]

possibly not the right thread to check, but its more of a ‘pre-emptive’ dumbassery check =)

wondering if i can use the latter instead of the recommended Mouser 1/4 Jack for the 1183 Quad VCA, the footprints seem very similar. Perhaps a slight bending of the legs will be needed but thought i should check anyways =)

Quad VCA 1183 recommended 1/4 Jack:
Grafik1 (mouser.co.uk)

1/4 Jack from Thonk (where im getting the rest of my stuff)

WQP-PJ612A.pdf

TYIA for the help. =D

[analogoutput]

That should work fine.

[willow2x]

Cheers AO =) i should have read the bit that says:
“These are compatible with footprints for the Switchcraft 112A and the Neutrik NYS234” before i posted really ;D

haha!!

[willow2x]

One more quick question before i jump into making this one. Ive got all my bits together and just looking at the PCB the 470k have a rectangle around them…

is this one that needs to be precise or ‘near enough’ or is it a part that can be omitted?
Ive got a few already in my ‘ready to build’ box but want to be sure first.

[BenRufenacht]

I was just wondering the same thing. Did you ever get an answer to this question?

[analogoutput]

Maybe ping @lookmumnocomputer for the answer

[BlackDeath]

I used whatever I had in my stash, seems fine…

[lookmumnocomputer]

near enough. iii could even be 220k probably. but 470k is a nice common value. it is the knob which connects to the level knob on the front panel. 220k would just be a bit more sensitive. but in honesty I don’t think you’d notice any difference

[analogoutput]

Don’t know what the box around the footprint signifies. It’s just an input resistor to the summing amp.

R4, R6, and R8 are the same. Ideally you wouldn’t substitute for one without substituting for all. Ideally.

If you have lots of 220k you could double them up in series. 440k would certainly be close enough. Or if you went nuts once and bought a ton of 1M you could use pairs of them in parallel.