The “customs don’t care” threshold was 24€ so far, but that was with shipping, so effectively it was ~19€. Since the beginning of the year it was lowered to 0€, if I understand that correctly.
I mean, I am happy to pay taxes, but the procedure is pretty crazy! You get a letter, saying that your parcel is at the customs office (which might be quite far away if you are not living in a large city) and then you need go there, wait and then open the box together with the customs staff and explain what it is and then pay your ~3€.
DHL offers to handle this stuff for you, but when I tried that, they took one and a half week and then they wanted 12€ for this service.
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Getting the right sockets is hard! These have too many pins and even with cutting a few it does not work out! Going to run some wires and wait for my Tayda order…
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So I have the opposite problem, I only brought the “nicer” sockets and I can’t seem to figure out the traces to understand which of the 5 pins I should connect the ground and signal to, and if I need to jumper any of them together? Any help is appreciated!
Not all jacks need a switch terminal, but this one does (there is a track on the PCB going to it).
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Thanks for replies. Sounds like I’ll be ordering some more jack sockets then.
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Nicely sums up my last year 
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An evergreen comment.
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yeah that sounds really familiar !
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I’ve just soldered all of my components onto the PCB and tried to connect to my eurorack power, but as soon as I connect it the 10 R resistors (in FB1 and FB2) start to overheat and melt… Any ideas why this is happening?
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I would double check the cable you’re using and the direction you’re plugging the cable in. Can you share some photos of the back of the panel?
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Also, check for shorts:
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Exactly. I think what we’re getting at is that something somewhere is likely shorting. Could be the cable. Could be the direction of the box header, etc.
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Thanks for the advice. I’ve checked for shorts on the header with the multimeter and all seems fine. I did make a mistake with the box header when I soldered it the wrong way, but I just cut out a hole so I can put the cable in the right way.
Any other ideas of what to check?
On closer inspection, there might be some shorting on the header. Even though the multimeter doesn’t beep it shows something like 700 ohms so could just be my shoddy soldering
That’s caused by all the other components on the board.
And it’s unlikely to make the 10R burn, 700R will draw 17mA, or 0.2W, the 10Rs can handle that.
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Check your cable. Make sure the red stripe connects to the -12V pins at both ends. Make sure there are no shorts in the cable between ±12V/ground.
Make sure all ICs are oriented correctly, not in the socket backwards. (From your picture it looks like four of them are right, can’t tell about the others.)
Check continuity (of course there should be at least 10 ohms if you used those resistors) between the power header and the ICs: Make sure the +12V pin connects to +12V, the -12V pin connects to -12V. Check the datasheet or ask here if you don’t know which IC pin is supposed to connect to each.
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I’m not saying you need to write a troubleshooting guide, but, if you were to, this would be a pretty solid start.
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From what I remember, the + and - labels are reversed on the silk screen. You need to go by the component outline. I think you had the header in right after all.
EDIT: Wait, that’s the filter. Never mind…
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Turns out my TL072 op amp was the wrong way around. Woops!
Thanks for the help yall : )
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