1145 VC LFO Module

both work! so luckily all good, but yeah probably a bit of an oversight. :slight_smile:

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thank you very much for your patience :wink:

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I am building the second one of these, and I can not find more 10k potentiometers, so I was wondering if I could use 100k, because they are just voltage dividers for the ic pins?

I’d say maybe – worth trying but may not work great. As you say, they’re voltage dividers, but assuming the ADC inputs on the PIC are similar to the one’s on the AVR (Arduino), they aren’t the usual high impedance inputs, but instead they use a sample and hold capacitor that needs a certain current to charge fast enough. AVR recommends keeping the source impedance at 10k or below for reliable operations (and I should go read the PIC data sheets I guess but have actual work work to do).

EDIT: Narrator: He did look at the data sheets despite this, and at least the generic PIC16/PIC18 ADC docs also recommend 10k max. You could compensate for higher impedance with longer sampling windows, but then you’d have to tweak the code (if it’s even possible).

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Ah… yeah, I knew I forgot something! For a moment I felt very clever, identifying how this works with the potentiometer and the voltage, but then, yeah there is also current! :laughing:
But, wow, in this short time I have been on this forum, I learned so much about electronics, you people are just amazing! Always solid answers, always friendly, helpful and quick! :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

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Yeah I forget that sometimes too no worries. Maybe you have resistors you can put in series? Kinda gross but would work probs.

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or add a trimmer on the ass of your pot, so you could adjust it as you want

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Good idea! I will calculate that!
Also I found some 10k pots here, but they have a kind of click in the middle position. Might be good on the wave distortion… for the rest I need to come up with something else, or wait until I can buy 10k again xD

Yeah, a center detent would make sense on the dist.

I could get it open an removed the little ring and now the detent is gone! Just need to check if it still works… :thinking:

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Excellent outside the box thinking!

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More like inside-out-the-box thinking :thinking:

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TBH, 10k is so often used you should buy more either way probs.

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Which reminds me of the recommendations I found in an Alps datasheet the other day:

Shaded values are “specifications recommended by Alps Alpine.”

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yeah, and I did order some at tayda, but it takes so long! :wink: And I need to stay below the 20€ (including shipping) otherwise it get’s pretty complicated with customs here… BTW, I asked DHL to give me a proper account, so I can give them my bank details and they deduct the customs directly, but they said it’s a lot more complicated and that I need and EORI (?) number from customs, which you usually only get if you import stuff comercially -.- Why do they make this stuff so complicated?!? :disappointed_relieved:

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Thats some stupid shit to deal with, im sorry.

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I have mine finished. One LED seemed dead but I re flowed the joint and it worked, then died but replacements don’t work either so I suspect the transistor has failed for some obscure reason. The audio output on normal and invert both work so it’s not a general output problem. Other than that I found I fitted ON-OFF-ON switches, but that’s only a minor issue.

I am quite intrigued by it’s operation, I did not know what to expect and some of the functionality still seems odd. So i best go read the data sheet.

Cheers

Rob

you may not have the offset right if there’s LED problems maybe? if you turn the level to zero and fiddle around with the offset knob with a jack plugged into any of the outputs. get that figure to 0v (or plug it into a eco and adjust it until when you plug in the jack and remove the jack there is no pitch difference if that makes sense)

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It was when doing the initial calibration with the RATE at max I found the LED was not soldered fully, I could then adjust the trim and it was working for a while and then stopped. What I have notice is when I plug int to “-” the “+” LED goes out.

It’s Generally working (or at least I think it is…) … Will have to check the transistor …
Just really glad to be getting sound out of things I built…

Been a long project so far but it’s been so interesting and involving :slight_smile:

BIG THANKS :slight_smile:
Rob

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very weird!!! yes check, but at the same time like I always say check solder joints especially on the ground plane points

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