Any specific connections you think I should test with my multimeter?
Itās not clear to me if youāre feeding anything into the module. As I said earlier, the behaviour of the output LED doesnāt mean much if the output isnāt connected to anything, since thereās a capacitor in series with an extremely high impedance (~10Ā¹Ā² ohm) that decides if itās on or not, so the LED driver will keep doing what itās doing for a very long time if thereās no signal coming from the VCA stage.
Iāve got a drone going in and I only get any kind of signal when the cutoff knob is at about 2 oāclock. Nothing else.
Please keep in mind Iām pretty new at modular stuff so I could be completely missing something.
With that in mind, seems like this guy only likes low frequency square waves. Anything else putters out or does nothing. Is this normal?
This are the right ones to fit the female pinheader mentioned !
The long ones are, well long. A lil to long, but might also work if snipped to length !
I have a question about the 100k pots. Are all the same? I noticed one is labeled 100k and the others B100k. This is my third DIY project, still have to learn a lot.
The prefix is the potentiometer taper, i.e. the relation between position and % resistance at that point. B is linear, and by far the most common taper, so unless the documentation says otherwise, you can assume that 100k is the same thing as B100k.
(other common tapers are A for logarithmic (kind of), suitable for e.g. volume controls, and C which is reverse logarithmic. See the graphs here for more variants).
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Thank You! That was really helpful. I knew about the A and B difference. Because of that I was āafraidā I needed an A. I purchased 50 B100kās this evening so I want to use them all 
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So I put the filter together but I donāt know if its working right If I turn the Res up too high it starts screaming and the LED on top only lights up if the signal out is super loud, bottom LED wonāt come on at all. I have the same problem with 1113 where the res going to high makes it start screaming out some high frequency and the LEDs only come on if its super loud.
Can anyone tell me whats wrong here? https://youtu.be/hh31YWFf1wo
Welcome to the forum 
(btw, you can copy the link alone in one line to integrated it in the topic)
for that itās normal, most of filters can enter in auto oscillation with the resonance pot at full
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So are the LEDs only supposed to come on when its self oscillating or should they be on when any signal is going thru?
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yes if itās like other filters, only when you use a lot of resonance (with or without input signal)
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I havenāt built the 1114, but it has one LED on the CV input and one on the output, both of which will only turn on if the signal levels are high enough.
(this is different from the MS20 style filter, which has clipping LEDs in the feedback loop).
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ā¦ ok sorry for that 
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Say that hypothetically I had the power supply rails reversed on the 1114 and I replaced the chips and itās still not working, what would be the best order to start replacing components?
Hitting maximum plonker over here.
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was it working before??? or was this the first time plugged in?
maybe the 10r resistors?
have a look and see how burnt they are? to be honest if you have replaced the chips it should work.
double check the chips. maybe you got dodgy ones, swap em again maybe
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Best thing to do is do some measurements to see what might be wrong. Like, do you have Ā±12 V and ground where youāre supposed to? If so, maybe next thing is to use an oscilloscope or audio probe to trace the signal starting at the input and see where it goes wrong.
The components most likely to be damaged by reversed power are the 10R resistors and the 10 ĀµF capacitors. But before replacing them, check whether you need to by seeing if youāre getting power on the downstream side of them.
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It was working before so no issues there.
Hi all, does anyone know if a 22k resistor will work in the place of the R32 20k resistor? Itās the closet Iāve got.
Cheers, Jack
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10% is a quite typical resistor tolerance, so yes
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yep all good! thats fine
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