pop the CV attenuvert knob to centre. plug in a cv into the cv input and then twist the trimmer until you notice no change, it basically sets the 0 point of the attenuverter, twist the knob clockwise it makes the voltage go + twist it counter clockwise it flips the voltage to minus.
so if you put in like an envelope generator you can flip it so instead of it making the filter brighter it can make it duller if that makes sense?
edit just saw @cTorp post ha what they said!!!
Oh and the “12 Pin PCB HEADER MALE AND FEMALE“ are not mentioned what height they should have… Is it always the similar 2,54 in all modules, or are they varying in height ? I think i have a to short one, its just 6mm in height, just the plasic thingy, and with the pins sticking out (to solder it in) its 0,9mm in height. The part that has the slim plastic strip around and the very long legs, is 12mm with pins measured (id solder in the long legs, and use the short ones to connect to the female part…
But i dont want to screw such a thing again, no desoldering anymore xD !
Is there any source to see what should be used for that build ?
The ebay link doesnt work anymore and the bom doesnt say anything about the exact part.
hey they are always the same I try to keep as many components the same throughout unless mentioned.
just standard header pins if you are based in uk here :
I usually just buy a bunch of ones with too many pins and snip em to size. you can get a lot out of em then,
Did you mean to link to two different pitches? 
This Headers will be my personal hell if i wont be able to wrap my head around the correct ones to use xD
I mean in a full diy project where “no spaces and dimensions” have to match, its obviously “irrelevant”, but when building a project with premade pcbs, its a bit different.
Oh and im in germany.
I use reichelt.de or uk-electronic.de, but if there is no way around and i know that they definitely are going to work and hold me quite a while, id happily purchase from out of germany 
I also have to get some thonk stuff, that i cant find in germany.
I checked a few German sites, but it seems they all hate people looking for standard 2.54 mm pin headers so didn’t find any reasonable options (Reichelt’s product pages and prices didn’t match the search results, Conrad’s photos didn’t match the products (oh that’s an ok price for a 1×40, wait “polzahl je reihe: 2” ?) and UK electronics had exactly one option, a 1×6 stackable female header, and nothing else. At which point I started worrying that maybe pin headers are restricted goods in germany and I’m now on some kind of watchlist…)
I’d recommend Tayda, if not else because they don’t have a million options so you can actually find things by searching. Get some 40-pin male headers:
and some single row 2.54 pitch female headers of suitable size:
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/connectors-sockets/pin-headers.html
They don’t seem to have 12-pin female headers at the moment, but you can grab two 6-pin headers or just get 40-pin versions and cut them off:
TME is also an alternative, btw; they do have a million options, but at least their search is pretty good. Here are some reasonably priced headers (if you ignore the 1000+ pcs options, at least).
TME: Pin headers, male/female, 6/10/12/40 pins, 2.54 mm pitch, THT
There’s also mouser.de and digikey.de, of course, but they again suffer from the million options issue.
As for size, I just noticed recently Tayda’s datasheet for the male headers says the pins are 4.00 mm (above the plastic strip),
but this is false: they’re really about 6.00 mm.
I think the female socket datasheet dimensions are about correct:
although the drawing is inaccurate, showing the 3.3 mm pins nearly the same height as the 8.5 mm body.
Thanks a bunch for that kind of information ! ! !
Ill definitely make bigger order 
oh gosh sorry yeah my bad removed the wrong one!
A little headsup from my side regarding that topic !
I had a browse through the uk-electronic shop as i am sourcing the components for the safety valve right now. (my plan seems to work, to finish the “easy” but time consuming parts of the 3 Kosmo Modules i have right now, and learn on the path, to just need a few Hours then to finish them all off and then have 3-4 Modules to Test with each other xD)
But to Uk-Electronics :
I found this two beauties, they seem about right?
Some snipping and everybody gotta be happy ?
PINSTRIP (male pin header)
https://www.uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=4786
or
https://www.uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=4314
AND
Female Pin Header :
https://www.uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=4594
Pins are probably too long.
Probably good though they don’t tell you how long the pins are.
Fine.
You only need 12 pins but it’s possible to cut the sockets to length and the headers just snap off.
I would have thought about soldering in the long side or pushing the pins respectively as long “out” as i need them. Then they should get a grip in the Female Header i think, ill order them and try 
Im also not 100% certain when it comes to Jacksockets.
I have bought alot of wrong ones as i just looked at the size for the cable to put into it xD
Well. Now i want to get a few ones in one order, that will be the right ones for the Kosmo situation.
If this are the Thonk ones → PJ612A 1/4 inch Jacks (6.35mm) – Thonk – DIY Synthesizer Kits & Components
Which one of those sockets resembles that ?
Well this is strike two for me with building these modules. Getting ready to throw them and my stuff out the window. UGH!
Fired it up and the Shelf light stays on the entire time no matter the switch position, and again…NO SIGNAL! I noticed when I screwed it in to my case the other LED (not sure the name) would light up only when the plate was touching my rails. Grounding issue? Dying here. Any ideas what this could be?
the light on all the time I had that on one, turns out my led was around the wrong way, I just snipped the legs and swapped it from the back
as for the other led. thats super odd. its definitely some soldering in my honest opinion mind sending some pictures of em?
Firstly, honored to have you reply, Sam! Thanks man! I know these are probably ID10T errors 
Checking solder points now and reflowing if necessary. I’ll report back. Cheers!
Checked the LED, it was positioned correctly. Checked a few solder spots that seemed a bit weak after doing the highly scientific test of “turn it on and tap your finger around the points to see if the light blinks”.
So now here’s where we are at…
The unit turns on, shelf light all good, BUT as soon as I plug in a cable to the output, death. Light dies. Can’t turn it back on unless I unplug the patch cable and switch off the power then back on again.
Bottom LED won’t turn on. Tried talking sweet to it. Nothin.
What is the other end of that cable connected to?
The output LED (D2) is connected to the opamp’s high impedance input via a capacitor with no bleed resistor, so until you plug something in it’s a bit random if the LED is on or off, depending on what happens during power up (it’s not a power on indicator). Once there’s a path to ground, the LED will turn off if there’s no output signal.
Thanks, Fredrik! I first connected it to my patchbay. Stays on if I plug into an input with no connection at the other end. But as soon as it meets someone else…beeeeoooo (power down sound).
Then after trying multiple inputs on different gear, it’s all the same. It dies even when I touch the other end of the cable. I’ll see if I can post some video here.