Yeah! It works if I heat it up with the hair dryer! I measured the capacitors, they have 25pF each, which is close to the 22pF they should be… the crystal is this, which should have a load capacitance of 16pF. Maybe I should change the capacitors for some that are closer to 22pF? I also have a few spare crystals, can also replace that…
edit: When I test the 22pF caps still in the bag, the multitester says “broken part” for all of them… is 22pF at the limit of these small multitester capacities maybe? or did I order a bad batch from ebay?
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Yeah it’s too low for them, put two in parallel and see if you get 44ish
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Yeah, sounds like it’s time to start swapping out components. I haven’t seen this specific issue myself, so no intuition as to where to begin, but swapping the caps is probably easier, so I’d start with them.
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I have now removed the capacitors and it’s still working without any capacitors… I will wait until it’s cold and see again.
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@lookmumnocomputer I build a midimuso CV12 two years ago (this was an original kit) and
when fed with the appropriate rising note values / control values I saw that some of the outputs showed a neat ramp, some were quite wavery and some even jumped up and down between values. So not all outputs showed a linearly rising output value. I gathered this had something to do with the pwm and the type / value of the capacitor I used and how that is loaded by the following circuitry.
I was wondering whether you have seen this while building your version. And what type and value of capacitors are used in your design? And is there a special reason to use those / do others not work as well?
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I hope I didn’t miss an announcement somewhere, but -
Any update on the availability of the blank(er) panels? I’ve been waiting to order until hearing more.
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It is still working without the quartz oscillator caps!! This lets me think that capacitors might be overrated in general… maybe I should try removing some more… 
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Get a side cutter and muntz away:
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Bluefang,
I’ve still been waiting to order as well. I hope people wanting blank-ish panels get them as well as people wanting panels without mistaken order numbers get those.
-Fumu / Esopus
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hi! I didn’t end up getting any of these as no one expressed an interest!
however I will get them. how blank would people be interested in? I can do them with the next stock. half blanker and half like they are. what kind of blankness are you after?
completely blank? just the function labels removed?
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Ha, I wondered if that’s what happened 
I’m curious if there is actually no interest, or if folks just assumed they would show up eventually and didn’t ask.
I guess I had assumed that “blank” would just mean removing the jack labels (function and port number), and keeping all of the art and the B/C/D heading. Maybe also leaving the pitch bend and mod #1 labels since those can’t be changed.
But I can see how others might be interested in also removing the art around the jacks and just keeping the B/C/D header, midi connector labels, and Kosmo branding. That might be better if someone wanted to use replaceable labels (tape) without making the panel look too busy/cluttered.
Maybe “blanker is better” is the best way to go, for maximum customization shrugs
But if there really isn’t enough interest to justify a custom batch, don’t worry about it. I totally know how to use sandpaper and spray paint 
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just function labels removed , but leave art work .
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I’d also be game to get some less specific blanks to make other custom modules out of with corner holes at 10cm and 5cm sizes.
Bluefang,
Silver Sharpie is a custom already practiced for adding functional labelling to custom Kosmo panels.
Everyone has their own style to make the Kosmo one of their own.
-Fumu / Esopus
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I got this built and calibrated but I have an issue. When I plug in the cv the oscillators pitch jumps up a few notes and the range is only a few notes over 32 keys. Midi thru works, gate works, pitch wheel works but not calibrated. Just wondering why it jumps up when plugged in. 10.60 cal.
I don’t know which oscillator you’ re using, but typically the voltage on the CV input is added to the offset provided by the oscillator’s tuning knob. The midimuso MIDI to CV adapter continuously outputs the voltage of the last note played which is typically not MIDI note 0 so it will be a voltage above 0V and will bring up the pitch of the oscillator when you plug it in. It could go up by a few octaves e.g. if the last note played was around middle C.
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It’s ALIVE!!! Got it sorted.
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I got my Tune at 10.6
But I can’t get the pitch bend voltage below 1v at the full extent of the POT
R1 and R27 are both 1K.
Other than a faulty pot, does anyone have any idea??
Pot is “103” which should be 10K right?
with the OPAMP out, I can get 0-12V if it’s on 12V and I plug in the OPAMP it drops to 10V…
FIXED
I bet your thihngking great, he’s fixed it and not going to spill the beans like so many techincal threads on forums.
So.
I had a better look at the schematic, determined the opamp must just be acting as a biased buffer.
Not a lot to go wrong there really.
I was going to check the output voltage of the opamp, but thought I should check the power rails first. +12 was fine, - 12 was awol. It was awol on all the 74’s
I quickly checked my new PSU and that was fine
I then started looking at the board.
AHHHEMMMMM
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Yeah, an out of focus board can cause all sorts of problems.
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