twinturbo!! that I think will never change hahaha, its a given in synth diy that everything is never fully working 
haha. there’s always a knob thats wired backwards, or something that somehow didnt get calibrated.
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I was speaking to @nervous_squirrel about it the other day, the testing and faffing at the end is always the unfun bit! cus its already makes noise haha, he is on a big journey I have heard to get all the weird gremlins fixed in his monster
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Added here
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will the PCB be available separately? and if so, how big is it? My panels are a little shorter than kosmo, although I am considering adding an additional kosmo case, especially of these will need the height i dont have.
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None of the other Kosmo PCBs is available without the panel, so likely not.
From the photos looks like the PCBs are about 160 mm high.
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thanks for the info. the search for midi to cv continues…
So Sam’s module is basically a midimuso repackaged for KOSMO so if you’re not building KOSMO why not get that one instead?
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thank , especially the format for the crystal is it 20pf or series style ?
indeed to backup what fredrik said, this is basically the Midimuso in kosmo format, powering the normal midimuso with synth power supplies is troublesome however, also things like the trigger isnt buffered etc, also with his chip there are a couple of funky things like its not return to bass which makes it hard to actually play with a keyboard in mono mode.
the pro! is the price, the pcbs is small. plus its a full kit. except it’ll need the hardware. For mine I had to buy the chips from him, so its a tad long winded.
But yeah, from experience with the midimuso kit… provided you build it into a box and power by an external supply its great!
EDIT BACK PCB’s ARE 146mm tall
EDIT EDIT if you use midimuso make sure to power it with a 15v brick to make sure its deffo in tune
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Making good progress with those weird gremlins!
Also I didn’t realise you were working on a midimuso project - I’ve just been putting some Octex boards together this week!
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Thanks Sam, I’ll look into the muso, didnt have a clue about it until I saw these posts, you live and learn.
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Well, you can always buy the original midimuso cv12 pcb. That fits nicely behind a euro rack format panel. I bought one and modified it so that its output voltage range is switchable. Normally the output voltages is in the range 0 … 10 Volts, but I’ve added a switch which makes the range -5V … 5V making it compatible with euro rack.
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well seeing its HC18/u it is series , but I think tayda has the correct style we want to use
So LMNC is it okay as the Tayda part for 16MHz crystal at 20pf or does it have to be an HC18/u series type, which one did you use for this?
My Tayda list is unverified, so if there is something wrong please let me know. I can’t answer the question on if the crystal is correct or not. Anyone?
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I will amend the bill of materials, I honestly missed that, its more a generic crystal. the Hc80 or Hc49 should be fine! It is basically running as a standard Arduino and I see a lot of those with HC-49’s so I will amend the bill of materials and just take the HC,80 out
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video 
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hey, will this crystal work:
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/IQD/LFXTAL034655Reel?qs=GJ%2F2ZGcr5uNE%2BYCTBFcLRg%3D%3D
it just has 18pf instead of 30. the other specs seem to match.
you know its smt style right ? just checking
yeah i realized that in the meantime.
anyway, do the pf matter much for its use in this module?
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