I simply need a simple voltage controlled clock for Thomas Henrys SuperSequencer. It’s a 2-by-16 step one where the second row of potentiometers can control the clock that makes the sequencer tick, thus making it possible to have individual step lengths .
A 555 or even a 566 (I think it’s named) could be used or even a, but is there a reliable schematic out there.
THomas Henry suggested a pretty advanced VCLFO, based on a CEM3340, to work with the sequencer and that’s way too complicated.
Unfortunately somethings very wrong with my PC as it cannot communicate with the arduinos, else a simple ATtiny85 would be perfect, but I have a major project getting the computer back to “normal”.
Anyhow, at least I can try some ideas on my experiment board and I know one thing for real, I get so confused as I expect a “free flowing voltage” I must try to catch and use, where as most simple schematics of VOLTIGE CONTROL oscillators have a potentiometer instead. But HEY! my sequencer also has potentiometers …
My PC is all … brainwrecked. Has to do with the USB-ports that are and aren’t working bu sometimes and sometimes not working …
A major update is planned…
I have also been fiddling with Vactrols; got some packages from Chian. Vactrols are perfect for converting current/voltage to resistance/current/voltage.
I had this problem with my laptop in the shop, it was an absolute nightmare as it would connect to the 3d printer, start a print, then disconnect halfway through. I reinstalled Windows onto a new SSD and everything worked perfectly. For Arduino clones, the CH340 driver is the one you want.
There were a Swede who a few years ago sold preprogrammed chips (ATtiny or the other brand) with useful functions like LFOs, ADSRs and more.
I found this one: https://electricdruid.net/product/vclfo-10/, but again, this is so … simple. I’ll be back with a report a little later, after coffee and assembling my speaker box.
The most common and fundamental issue with any usb connection is power. Sources, be it pc or some other unit vary in their ability to maintain or provide enough. I solved most of the usb issues I’ve ever had by using a good quality usb hub with it’s own dedicated power supply.
Hooked up a 7555 according to “learningaboutelectronic” article, and tried various values of the R (33K) and C (10nF). However a bigger C did cause the oscillator to stop, so I went for a 22nF cap and a 47K resistor and then connected the 7555 to a CD4014 (Q6 output). That gives a decent rate though I get approx. a 1:6 frequency response, but that can almost be acceptable.
I snag you design as I also need clocks for various modules in my synth-to-be. There’s no voltage control, but you definitely solved another of my problems.
(*) DIY/HiFi-meeting in Gothenburg yesterday. Hade prepared a 2.1-system with cast concrete left/right speakers and a big sub. Planned to use a Chinese 2.1 amplifier, but when testing it the evening before I found out that the Chinese possibly had solder the amp using no solder …
If you want an analog rather than digital vc LFO, you should check out a number of hte old posts on electro-music.com. Its not very busy these days but that is where I learnt most of my stuff.
I’d also look for the super simple 40106 based VCOs eg by a japanese guy whose name I’ve forgotton, or rene schmitz’s 4069 VCO, both of which use basically the same transistor pair voltage control input techniques.
then its just a question of getting the right Capacitor to make it an LFO instead of a VCO, because, really, they’re the same thing, just different rates…
I have zoomed in the zuper zimple VZO already - THANKS!
And as I have to wire up a simple filter for my concrete speaker, I can as well wire the simple VCOs. Got enuff of vero board.