The one I use is more elaborate (using a Nano and an OLED) but not necessarily better — it does tell you exactly which problem it found on which conductor, but that may not be useful information since no matter what the problem is the solution is likely the same: Either try cutting off and replacing one end at a time, or just chuck the bad cable out and make a new one.
The Nano based design has both 10- and 16-pin headers for both ends, allowing tests of cables using either kind of connector on either end. It might be possible to modify the simpler design likewise, at the cost of somewhat more wiring to connect each LED to both headers, and I guess a switch to select whether to connect the negative rail to pin 10 or 16… maybe?