That’s the point at which I get off the aesthetics bus. For me things don’t need to line up unless, for example, there’s a fastening or a health and safety issue or some other convincing reason. My module working standard technically requires module dimensions to be in the exact golden ratio but that’s because I can easily and cheaply source A5 and A4 sized wood and greyboard panels. The aesthetics goals of my designs are in the economy, flexibility and portability. I can get something beautiful running on dilapidated bits of cardboard and then turn my eyes to optimising the user interface. Only then do I need to consider hardware dimensions, panel colours, and the like.
The golden ratio is about 1.61, A5 ratio is about 1.41.
Specifically, 1.41421356237…, an irrational number but a rational choice, since if you cut a 1:1.41421356237 piece of paper in half widthwise, it’s 0.70710678118:1 which is the same ratio.
My PCB panels are multiples of 25 mm; my aluminum panels are whatever width my supplier cut them to which may be several mm wider than multiples of 25 mm. Being particular about lining things up would cost me whatever sanity I have left (or whatever bank balance I have left, one or the other).
FWIW, I appreciate the multiples of 25.
Speaking of blunders…
I’m still working away at the case and sadly it is getting more rough by the day. I might end up scrapping the french polish idea and just painting the whole thing afterall. I’m sad but I think I have too many nicks and gaps in the wood to be able to pull it off. I have a dark brown that I used on some of my other furniture that I am partial too. We will see.
I managed to make the front face a bit too small, so I am cutting slots into the face now so the modules have a bit more room. Apparently I didnt measure twice before cutting once.
Depending on the gap, you can try some nail hole filler. Might look fine with paint, not stain though.
Its not so much the gap so much as the sheer number of gaps XD
Well, if its gaps between where you are joining them, make sure to use wood glue to enforce them or it will not be solid.
My case isnt gorgeous, but it’s solid.
I planned mine out in FreeCAD, but ended up improvising with the back since it would have been more money to get more 1x8. I also ended up adding another row. But at that point, i already knew the math to get it right.
Make sure you keep in mind that nominal wood dimensions that they are sold at, and what the actual measurements are are different. Here is a chart for reference:
Nominal | Actual | Actual - Metric |
---|---|---|
1" x 2" | 3/4" x 1-1/2" | 19 x 38 mm |
1" x 3" | 3/4" x 2-1/2" | 19 x 64 mm |
1" x 4" | 3/4" x 3-1/2" | 19 x 89 mm |
1" x 5" | 3/4" x 4-1/2" | 19 x 114 mm |
1" x 6" | 3/4" x 5-1/2" | 19 x 140 mm |
1" x 7" | 3/4" x 6-1/4" | 19 x 159 mm |
1" x 8" | 3/4" x 7-1/4" | 19 x 184 mm |
1" x 10" | 3/4" x 9-1/4" | 19 x 235 mm |
1" x 12" | 3/4" x 11-1/4" | 19 x 286 mm |
1-1/4" x 4" | 1" x 3-1/2" | 25 x 89 mm |
1-1/4" x 6" | 1" x 5-1/2" | 25 x 140 mm |
1-1/4" x 8" | 1" x 7-1/4" | 25 x 184 mm |
1-1/4" x 10" | 1" x 9-1/4" | 25 x 235 mm |
1-1/4" x 12" | 1" x 11-1/4" | 25 x 286 mm |
1-1/2" x 4" | 1-1/4" x 3-1/2" | 32 x 89 mm |
1-1/2" x 6" | 1-1/4" x 5-1/2" | 32 x 140 mm |
1-1/2" x 8" | 1-1/4" x 7-1/4" | 32 x 184 mm |
1-1/2" x 10" | 1-1/4" x 9-1/4" | 32 x 235 mm |
1-1/2" x 12" | 1-1/4" x 11-1/4" | 32 x 286 mm |
2" x 2" | 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" | 38 x 38 mm |
2" x 4" | 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" | 38 x 89 mm |
2" x 6" | 1-1/2" x 5-1/2" | 38 x 140 mm |
2" x 8" | 1-1/2" x 7-1/4" | 38 x 184 mm |
2" x 10" | 1-1/2" x 9-1/4" | 38 x 235 mm |
2" x 12" | 1-1/2" x 11-1/4" | 38 x 286 mm |
3" x 6" | 2-1/2" x 5-1/2" | 64 x 140 mm |
4" x 4" | 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" | 89 x 89 mm |
4" x 6" | 3-1/2" x 5-1/2" | 89 x 140 mm |
Yup, that burnt me a couple of times before I figured it out! So not only does the US have an inscrutable system of measurement, the measurements also need to be offset when you buy wood
I found that there were indeed good reasons nominal measurements exist, but its just something to keep in mind if you arnt a carpenter (apparently quite a few of those on this forum).
I hate this. For example, a 2in x 4in x 8ft (2x4) is more like 1.5in x 3.5in x ~8ft
This has probably been mentioned here but what thickness of aluminium face plates is everyone using to where it is stiff enough to not bend?
the only aluminium I can find where I live is either .5mm thick in large sheets that I have to cut myself another supplier does 1.2mm thick at 200x 300mm
What thickness are you using? and do you think 1.2mm thick is enough?
yeah!!! get 1.2. I have found .5 to be just a bit too thin. 1mm works too, all the way up to 2mm, but its just a bit messier to cut. any thicker then you risk not being able to attach some panel mount thingies
In my build - Rails MAX should be 12mm if “shared” with an upper/lower panel - I found 1cm too narrow
Typically there is about 6mm play on panels before you land a PCB edge.
If your rail plan has a dado edge then that edge should be no more than 6mm
I had honestly forgotten about this thread after starting the other build one.
My second case is coming along - I have 2 coats of urethane on it and plan on getting two more soon.