I did just finished building it and it kinda works. To me, it sounds more like a wavefolder then a phaser. I remember having two tape recorders playing the same audio files, since both tape recorders differs in playback speeds, one recorder will eventually catch up and both audio files will starting to overlap resulting in a phasing effect. The Barton phaser unfortunately doesn’t sound anything like that. Its not bad but not great also. So yeah, way too many components if you ask me.
I haven’t built a phaser, but what you are describing with the cassette tapes is the sound of flanging, not the sound of phasing.
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Just decided to stick with Yusynth, Ray Wilson, Moritz Klein schematics. Why? Well they always seem to work
The Barton JFET phaser will be desoldered, No offence to Barton but I’ve expected a little more from this module considering the amount of components needed. So that brings me to the 8 stage phaser from Music From Outer Space. I gonna check that out.
I created a Raspberry PICO based Midi Clock that also outputs clock and reset gates.
Still need to make a case for it.
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Nice builds.
How does the MFOS Sonic Multiplier sound? Is it any good? Since there is only 1 video to be found on youtube (father and sontiziser), im just wondering why that is. If it does sound great and it is a really good addition to my setup, i would like to be the 2nd person on youtube showing my version of the module
Very nice design.
I’d like to build one and so would like to see how to built the panel and controls. Do you have some pictures you could share?
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Hi - welcome to the forum!
Which of the designs in my earlier post are you particularly interested in, the frequency divider / analogue switch or the Cellular Automaton so I can post some pictures of the back side.
In general terms, my panels are made from 2mm aluminium (which I buy in 1m lengths cut to 128.5mm wide) cut and filed to the required length. I drill (and file for rectangles) the holes then prime with a thin coat of etch primer followed by normal primer and the top coat. I print waterslide transfers on an inkjet printer and give them a thin coat of satin varnish. These are then applied (as individual transfers, not a whole panel at once) and the completed panel finished with a coat of satin varnish.
On the rear side I generally use pcb mounting potentiometers epoxied to 2mm thick 3D printed pads which are themselves epoxied to the back of the panel (this is to save space as I’m building in Eurorack format and normal panel mount pots take up too much space). Other components (e.g. 5mm LEDs) may also have 3D printed spacers which are epoxied to the panel. Sockets are cheap panel mount 3.5mm mono jack sockets with a switched connection to the tip terminal). PCBs are mounted perpendicular to the panel using 3D printed brackets again epoxied to the back of the panel. Finally I solder flying leads to the panel components terminated with Dupont connectors which plug onto pin headers on the PCB.
Here are a couple of pictures of the back of a different module to illustrate the general idea-
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I like the use of epoxied brackets to avoid drilling holes in the front panel, or even just finding a place for the holes.
I’d like to build the Cellular Automaton. It looks like the 3D-printed LED matrix is made in two parts. How do they fit together? Are there holes in the frame for the LEDs? How are they fastened to the front panel?
Many thanks.
The LED matrix is indeed in two parts; the clear lenses and the black bezel. They just press together. The LEDs press into holes.in the back of the lenses and the bezel is epoxied into a square hole in the panel. The stl files are on Thingiverse (also linked from the GitHub repository).
I’ll post a picture of the back of the Cellular Automaton panel tomorrow.
Those modules look brilliant.
Another way to mount boards is “stooge brackets” behind the front panel, hooked onto pots/switches/jacks:
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Another neat solution if you’re using panel components which can secure a bracket in that way.
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