Can anyone tell me if the .22uf capacitor absolutely needs to be electrolytic or can I use a clay one? Also, can anyone tell me where I can buy a .22uf electrolytic capacitor? It might just be his handwriting, and I know that mine is the same way, because my lowercase letter u looks just like my lowercase letter n… Is it a .22nf?..
I think all 3 polarized caps should be in the micro farad range. The “u” from the 10uF filter cap looks the same as on both other caps.
Also I just realized the non-logic in my deduction. Lol. If it is .22nf and still needs to be electrolytic, I still don’t know where to find either .22nf or .22uf electrolytic caps…
…any ideas on where to buy .22uf electrolytic caps? My searches where fruitless.
I can get them here in California at Anchor electronics .22/50 is 10 cents and .22/100 is 14 cents . let me know . Its not a problem Lauri, at all just need sending info and we are good. and the amount you need.
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In germany they are available in some shops. But for this specific one just use a 220nF foil cap.
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.22 µF (or 220 nF) would make sense. Here’s another twin t, the NLC Bong0, with 100k resistors and a 100 nF cap:
If it were me I’d use a film cap rather than an electrolytic even if I could find the latter.
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Awesome! Thank you. I’m not sure if I’ll need them. I’m going to try a 220nf film cap as per suggestion (I have those already) and if I need some after all I will definitely like to buy them from you.
I’m gonna try the 220nf cap. Also Ive built a pretty close version of your posted schematic. I like it! I’m just wanting to do some stuff with the 4069s I have sitting here.
Probably a good idea to try out various capacitors and see how the circuit behaves anyway! Sometimes you can get away with wild substitutions, sometimes you need the values to match as close as specified, either case you learn something you wouldn’t if you’d cook by the book.
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I agree about trying different capacitor values, go totally Hainbach and listen to every capacitor you own.
And perhaps that might explain the mystery electrolytic symbol? If the original author came up with 220nF perhaps they also tried larger values, and perhaps those were electrolytics so the polarity was important.
If it helps, here’s my twin-T ShedSynth KICK DRUM - not original, cribbed from several sources and largely based on a very good explanation at helsinkisoundelectronics.files.wordpress.com, capacitor sizes look ball-park similar to Lauri’s.
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Righteous! I love these twin-t schematics! I’m definitely going to build another kick module I just got to figure out which one. Thank you so much!
Here’s my take on the Twin T drum. I like to add a soft clipping distortion circuit to get more harmonics and then low pass filter to make it less gabber. Also, there’s switchable diodes in parallel to frequency pot, basically they make the frequecy be at maximum when the oscillation is over 0,7 volt, so it creates more of a snap in the start of the sound instead just the long boom.
More experimentation could be done with different diodes and leds and having another pot in series with them instead of a switch.
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Cool! I saw this schematic here in the forum. I really want to build it. Thank you for the notes!
here
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I saw the wavefolder too! I’m gonna build this one in breadboard tonight. I built lauri’s drum and I like it. I wanna try at least one more circuit to see which one I like best. I may end up replacing the twin t I have already. It’s the all about circuits build.
Just a funny note, this thread gets me so confused as my first name is also Lauri.
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That’s rad! I will likely have two twin ts in my rack both designed by lauri!
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Krakenpine, this module is so badass! I love it! It’s going in my rack for sure. I just put it on breadboard and it sounds amazing. Thank you so much for this!
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I really fell in love with the mellow sound of this module when the decay was set long in the video. I’ve never converted a schematic to stripboard before, does anyone know if this one has a layout done already?
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Lauri has gerbers for it on his site on the video