Brown Jacks tend to hang out around -2v and jump up into + then back down into -'s.
Brown’s are meant only to patch into one another.
Red Jacks send out Positive Pulses. from .4v up to around 6.5v
Black Jacks are Grounds. 
If I remember, I’ll snap a vid with a multi-meter 
@ChristianBloch 
got my DSO workin just fer you. Lol
Patching the 2-Roll into itself to produce patterns. 
Wow, that’s just very cool! Thanks for hooking up the scope!
Node guide for Rungling.
Today - I sent out 7 Rungling boards… lol
People seemed to freak out over these
The 2-Roll LFO’s Pulses seem to be adequate enough to Trigger MI Braids’ Drums n such
@fredrik
Have a question for ya, maybe you can help!
I breadboarded the Mido generator with the LM358 and it seems to work perfectly, although it only seems to be bringing the voltage down to around 7.71v
I am trying to get it right around 4.5v, do you have any suggestions on what to alter?
It would be the 2 Resistors correct?
Any idea on what values?
Or how to calculate that?
And this is why I take pictures…
I think I have power going into the lm358 and the resistor is taking direct 12v instead of the 9v power lol,
Brb.
HAH Success.
I do like the pink breadboard adaptation is that DIY?
And this is why I take pictures…
Only works if you post them to a public forum, in my experience 
A variant of Rubber duck debugging - Wikipedia, I guess.
I do like the pink breadboard adaptation is that DIY?
Yessir - I posted it over in Build Progress -
Fredrik linked the exact pack I bought - all i did was cut the pink one down to make the adapter -
definitely a variation to rubber duck lol - I often will start babbling about something to my cat or to my fiance about KiCAD and after a while, thats usually when I figure out what im doing wrong lol.
Some boards I am planning to make before finishing up EuRoolz… ( 
)
5-6-Roolz
Pretty old threads guys —
I’m thinking about porting the Rolls 3 and 4 to a Buchla card - seems like a ton of fun.
As I can see, the Pulse outputs are negative pulses, right?
Also, have you confirmed the above posted schematics?
I’ve already started to draw these in Eagle, yet, those circular drawing things that Peter uses is just super crazy
Still here Joshua?
I’ve just checked the above posted schematics and I’d like to start a little chat about those - yet, new to this board and can’t really find the PM/DM button XD
I do not suggest using this with Buchla…
I mean, you can use the positive outs…
The Nodes however are current sensitive and meant to be patched within the ciat-lonbarde systems.
If it says anything, I have re-built at least 4 Plumbutter, and have a Rolzer on the way to repair because of peoples negligent patching with Rolz.
Its not that they output negative voltages, its a node directly at the base of the NPN and this is a sensitive, malleable node that reflects the inversion stage of the multivibrator.
The base of the NPN can easily be “broken” with negligent patching.
Sure, I’m not really interested in the “brown” bananas - I’d simply ignore the nodes.
I’m just interested in making a kinda intuitive clocking stuff.
Could we exchange some e-mails?
without the brown nodes it just becomes a basic click based on whatever the capacitor value is for timing.
The magic is quite literally connecting brown nodes together to alter the “neurons” charge and dump cycles (duty cycle)
You would be better off with some type of LFO honestly.
yeah feel free to email me or message me on Lines.
d42kn355@gmail.com
