Well done @fredrik! And I think I can speak for most of us to say no one’s going to call anyone needy or ask you to bugger off @dirty_g for asking questions. We’re all learning here and while we can all get stumped from time to time the odds are someone here will have something to contribute. Enjoy!
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Has anyone found a polyphonic alternative to the wav trigger. I could build a 20 piece synth drum kit and mixer for what one of those would cost me in the uk.
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The WAV trigger -is- polyphonic. 
I really need to make this thing. I have most of the parts, just need the wav trigger.
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Is that wav trigger pretty responsive? I want to do synth drums but this was trigger guy seems like a good thing to cover some of the things synth can’t do and cover the bases in the meantime
Dont own myself, but it seems pretty fine.
i do one of the Sam version (without wave trigger, just Big B) and it’s work good, except a little error in the code about the led , i ask it to Sam and i change 1 number in the code and all are ok after.
The specs for both the standard WAV trigger (which is out of stock) and the newer Tsunami says 8 ms typical latency, 12 ms max.
Sorry. I know the wav trigger is polyphonic. I mean is there a DIY alternative which is also polyphonic
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“We do not currently have an estimate of when this product will be back in stock.” Don’t know if that’s just a pandemic thing or if it’s basically out of production.
This one is in stock
but it’s 80 bucks.
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With its 64MB or RAM and 480MHz processor, the Daisy will be able to do at least some polyphony.
The 8MB of flash may or may not be enough to store all the samples you’ll want, compression might be necessary. It’s only $29, and you would get all you need except the front panel stuff.
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I remember adafruit made some kinda wav triggerie thing it was smaller but had a good bit of flash on it.
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Yup. It’s monophonic and no better than much cheaper modules. I’m taking a queue from the old lindrum spec and drawing up an eprom sample player. Old tech but it works. As always, do not watch this space as progress is slow.
Plus today I had some essential writing to do…
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I’m building the big button and wav trigger into a single unit. Will report on it all once it’s together and working… or not!
I should get the wav trigger and the remaining other bits I’m missing Monday. On Sam’s list of building materials the link to the rotary switch was 12-pos, so that’s what I bought. The 6-pos should arrive with the wav trigger and I’ll start wiring it all up.
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Most 12 position rotary switches have a collar to set the Max number of settings. If you have 6 extra then I say use them for a second arduino and 6 more outputs…
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Please post what rotary switch you bought, I have heard “make-before-break” or a “break-before-make” can make a difference.
Dont worry if you dont have it, @antoine.pasde2 commented that it shouldn’t matter much, they know what they are talking about.
I just want to follow up and see for BOM reasons.
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Unscrew the nut and look at the lock washer. If it has a tab or break in it then it’s one you can change. Pull up the spec sheet.
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I have that exact one - unscrew and set the tab to the 6 marking.
Rexxxxx
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Apart from glitching there are some important reasons to decide between mbb and bbm.
When I’ve used them for guitar fx a break in the signal can harm some amps and pre-amps.
When using for capacitor selection a mbm can give you odd effects while switching and you can also get a temporary voltage division when using resistors. As already noted, arduino doesn’t care much but for audio especially you need to think about what’s connected at each stage of the turn and factor that in. Wiring caps in parallel to a rotary is a fun way to add a huge pitch range to the super simple oscillator.
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I’ve got this one on order:
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/c-k/A10603RNCQ/CKN11064-ND/3751742
And this one on hand:
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