Barton Wave Animator 15V/12V question

hello , i find this stripboard , is there somebody know if it can do with 12v without modification. thanks

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Here’s a link to the Euro version of a module by that name, which presumably runs on Eurorack power. There’s a build guide in the link on the page. I hope this is helpful.

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thanks a lot Bitnik ! i go to see that to compare the value of components …
it’ seems to be a good module and with the stripboard : easy to build
bye

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Bonne chance mon ami et poste tes schémas finaux quand tu auras fini.

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Here’s Barton’s page for that module. At $8 for the PCB I’d buy that rather than use stripboard, but I understand it may be different for those far from the US.

Barton’s stuff generally runs on 12 or 15 V, with the build instructions calling out any component changes necessary.
http://www.bartonmusicalcircuits.com/saw/

merci à toi, je savais pas qu’il y avait d’autre français que moi ici
@+

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From a very quick peek at the schematics in the build guide, it looks like everything except a 330k “offset” resistor is centered around 0 V, and afaict both the 12 V schematics (where it’s labelled OFFSET) and the 15 V stripboard layout (R20) use the same value there, so odds are it’ll work just fine as is.

i’ve just compare all the components and all are similar for 15V and for 12 V !!!

just on the stripboard the dude are not put the 6 10nf cap at the power supply pin of each IC

That’s something I’ve noticed, nearly all the synth modules and similar circuits I’ve seen use 0.1 µF caps for bypass on the IC power pins, but Barton specifies 0.01 µF. It probably matters very little (Sam keeps saying just leave the bypass caps out if you feel like it, NBD) but it does strike me as odd. I used 0.1 µF on my Barton Analog Drum.

Yeah, 0.1 µF (100 nF) is pretty standard. From the TL07x datasheet:

As for if they’re needed, here’s Dave Jones (eevblog) “muntzing” away all the bypass capacitors on a big PCB:

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I obviously need you to curate my YouTube feed!

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Thanks @Dud I’m a Scotsman who speaks French.

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Hey Dud,

The 12v off you eurorack power rail will work fine. I build this exact stripboard version…However, from my scope - this animator circuit will convert all the waves you feed to an animated square waves (even saw and ramp). Strange because if you get the Barton Circuit DIY PCB board (Modular Addict sells them) - it will retain the original animated wave instead of converting it. -saw and ramp waves remain angular (like in the sample Barton video). Regardless, both my version work nicely to chop and animate your source. Let me know if you get the same square results on this stripboard version.
Rexxxxx

when you listen to the audio exemple in the Barton web site, the module don’t keep original wave, all seems to be square at the output of the module, and i don’t see what you say, on modular addict it’s exactly the same description like Barton web site, and on modular grid too
i think it’s normal

What I mean is the stripboard version circuit isn’t the same as the Barton one… Yes… the waves are animated and changed… if you have a scope you’ll see the difference between the two especially on a triangle wave - Barton has jagged edges vs. the stripboard version with square edges. Both are great!

Cheers, Rex.

effectively it’s strange because it’s exactly the same components, i go to compare the way of each on the both
thanks

Did you guys that made this work use this layout? I have questions!
The linked resistors circled. Do they just connect together, or meet at a rail? Also, there’s 2 R22s?

Is there a schematic available. If so that (or I) may help.

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There’s a schematic in the build guide (click on “downloads” on the synthcube page). All three TL074s have the same circuitry, and the right side corresponds to the lower part of this section:

so R25/26/27 (100k) goes from pin 8 to pin 12, R14/15/16 (330k) from pin 12 to pin 14.

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So, you have found the answer to your question then. E.g. the 100k resistor from pin 8 is connected to pin 12 and so is the 330k resistor from pin 14. This means the schematic, which looks right to me, does not correspond to the stripboard version. Follow the schematic and you should be oke. Also, since you’ve found this error in the stripboard, there may be others. I’d suggest you verify all other connections. And make it a habit to always solder a stripboard with the schematic next to it. Do not simply follow a stripboard.

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