when you send in a run of bus boards and totally forget to add the white line silks screens… lol
Maybe I should just build some and sell them lol - with shrouded headers… lol
sigh.
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I might pick up one for a testing rig. Just take a few pictures and I can figure it out.
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trying to calibrate the midi-2-cv and not getting less than 1v on the pitch bend…
Solder bridge -12 to ground
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Soldering all the jacks and Pots to the 3XAPC without the front panel on… HORROR!!!
Fortunately it was millimetre imperfect , so a little easing got the panel on.
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u and n look very similar, they’re just each other upside down, and yet there’s a surprisingly important difference between 10uF and 10nF.
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Took the almost finished 3apc in to work with me to play with. Snipped all the component legs, soldered one missed one and gave it a try.
Total silence
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I recently posted my second Barton Balanced Outs build to the build thread, proudly describing how I’d used fancy XLR/¼" combo jacks:
Well, XLR cables are not identical at both ends and, sigh, those are only appropriate for the receiving end. So now it looks ordinary 
:
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Second one from me today… about a month ago, I built a Hexinverter Mutant Clap. It sounded vaguely like a clap in some positions, but it was underwhelming. I moved on to other builds, but I went back to it again today to see if I might have put in some incorrect values of something. I was loath to take it apart because it’s three stacked boards with standoffs. Well, I’m glad I did:
Sounds pretty good now 
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Bonus non-dumbass points for using the word “loath” correctly.
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Oops:
Didn’t count on that. Positioned the board mounts to clear the pots. But didn’t thing the jacks would protrude enough to interfere with anything.
Need to reprint it anyway. That empty hole is for a 3P4T rotary switch…which not only do I not have (but amazon will get to me by tomorrow, glad I caught it early today!) but also I sized for a pot instead so need a bigger hole. yeah…I could drill it out…but since I need to reposition the board mounts anyway…
One more panel for the “nice try” bin:
Honestly…I thought I had more in the bin…Almost half of those are for the MS-20 Filter panel which took me 5 tries to get right.
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Glad I’m not the last person to make that mistake (on the first attempt at the quantizer panel, which also had board mounting issues).
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At least this just takes me 2 hours and $1 worth of filament to print a new panel. Would be a lot less fun (and more expensive) to make the mistake on a PCB!
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the cost of PCB mistakes is a little bit of a pain, whats worse is waiting 3 weeks for the next wrong one to turn up…
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how are you finding that style of jack, they seem prone to failure in the things i used them for.
I fucked up and got solder in a pad that didn’t have the component in it yet, and now I can’t get it out. Is there a preferred way of getting the solder back out?
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There are solder suckers and there’s desoldering braid.
But what usually works for me is just a toothpick. Heat the pad from one side and stick a toothpick through from the other side. A “helping hands” or soldering vise is probably needed, that or a friend willing to hold the board while you work on it.
You can usually do several holes before the toothpick’s too burned up to use any more.
(If there’s just a little solder in the hole it can be hard to make enough contact to heat it up. The non intuitive solution is to add more solder.)
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depending on the component,
Just re-heat the pad and push the component through.
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Stick worked! Thanks.
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A less orthodox method for stubborn solder in holes is to heat it and then quickly slap the circuit board edge on the table to "flick " the solder out.
Works but takes practice
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