Or to play the sequence manually for whatever creative reason. In fact for tuning the pots you’d probably use the buttons.
Looks so nice! Makes me want to do this project again
Looks so nice , makes me want to finish this project again .
Hello guys, do you have a template for the front panel of this sequencer ? A friend of mine offered to machine me one, but i dont know how to create a template on my computer. And i can’t even find the drill guide for this module. Sorry if this kind of thing was alrady posted maybe i missed it…
Don’t know of one, I made up my own but for my version which adds several (11, but who’s counting) panel components above and beyond the original.
There’s information on hole sizes at Kosmo Specification (it doesn’t include arcade buttons, I used 1 1/8" diameter). Drill 8 holes in a row for each of two pots, an LED, a jack, and an arcade button per stage and you’re most of the way there. Then you just need 3 input jacks, 3 output jacks, and 2 toggle switches, on the left or right or both sides.
I did mine in software but there’s always graph paper.
Thank you for the quick answer, i will try and do one myself then. I really love your build and the features you added but maybe i will start with the original since i am not very confident in my understanding of electronic schematics… (the video helps me a lot actually to understand what and where to solder)
This might be obvious, but are the forward, and backward jacks meant to be inputs for clock signals coming from other modules? I’m also unclear about what the point of the reset jack is
They’re for trigger signals. Reset tells it to go to step one on the next clock pulse.
Thanks that makes more sense
In fact reset tells it to go to step one now. Zero tells it to go to no step, that is, it sets the output CV and gates to zero. Forward tells it to go to the next step and backward tells it to go to the previous step. (Forward from zero is step one, backward from zero is step eight.)
Okay, I think I’m starting to get it, although I’m not really sure when you would want to use the zero function. I guess I’ll figure that out once I get it working
You’d want to use zero to truly reset and prepare to start at the beginning. I thought that’s how reset worked here because that’s how most modern sequencers work.
Ahh, in that case I’ll probably get alot of use out of that function. Didn’t know that was common with sequencers (you learn something new every day)
Do you have a link to the rotary switch you used?
So far I’ve managed to get everything except the buttons working. The only thing that sticks out to me is the red cable connecting the positive pins of the buttons. Should this line be hooked up to anything else like a 5V rail?
Yes. It doesn’t actually say so anywhere but all the red lines should connect to VCC (the output of the 78L05) and all the green lines should connect to ground.
Thanks! Hopefully that fixes it.
This is actually the same problem mine has, and I haven’t gotten around to diagnosing it. I will check those red wires today.