indeed!!! first thing I say when I get an email is reflow all the solder points, cus yeah it makes sense on a socket cus the more its pushed in the further the solder moves from the pad! so yeah makes sense glad thats now working!! 
but still no mix out?
yeah still no mix out as of yet!
amazing let me have a look, what would be a good way of checking signal at those points?
using a multimeter?
Try this:
Hereās a picture, the cap is smaller than what Jos was suggestingā¦
I still do that all the time! Iāve got a rather cooked hifi speaker I use. however I must confess all I do is use a mini jack cable, put the shield to the ground of the circuit with a bit of tape and use the other end and just plop it on all of the component legs till I hear something remotely alternating and oscillating. many times an almighty bang happens but im yet to pop a speaker cone, however its seems like a challenge!
Really helpful knowing what components to be checking @analogoutput thank you
I thought Iād have a solderrecheckk and saw one of my pins from the TL072 socket didnāt make it into the hole and was bent out
Replaced the socket and hey presto!
Works a treat, Iām definitely learning that troubleshooting isnāt as complicated as it may seem, I really wanna learn how to check a schematic and know what elements are involved in what part of the process
Iāll guess that will come in time the more I do this!
Pushing ICs into sockets always gives me paranoiaā¦
haha me too!
funny thing with this one is that it wasnt the ic but the socket itself that got a bent pin, not even sure how i managed it!
What i do is use the table to slightly bend all the pins inward all in a level-ish way (carefully).
Yeah, I do that. Sometimes itās the only way to have a reasonable expectation of a fit.
Sure, I do that. It doesnāt cure paranoia.
You want one of these: Jameco Benchpro IC Pin Straightener Tool
EDIT: Should point out that while I know itās a thing, I donāt have one myself, and I usually only recommend things Iāve tested myself 
ā but my strange brain just reminded me that Big Clive (of YouTube fame) has one, and not just that, it also remembered one video where he uses it: https://youtu.be/qfOardiykPs (tool appears at around 1:15:00; the video also features the cheap hollow needles Iāve mentioned before, and a very nice (but expensive) little desoldering pump from Japanese quality brand Engineer Inc that I have somewhere.)
after still trying to put it directly by forcing a little on one side, I always end up using a small pliers to twist it slightly
i donāt know this, excellent !
my luck is i would buy this thing and bend the fucker putting it in there.
I usually just unevenly squeeze them together between finger and thumb and then shimmy/jam them right in 
Talking of bending pins, did any of you have a hard time fitting in the single pole switches?
The holes in the PCB footprint are spaced out a little more than the ones for the double pole switches, so if you get all your switches from the same family, either the double pole or the single pole ones donāt fit quite right.
I had to slightly bend out the pins of the SPDT switches to make them fit (and hear some epoxy glue cracking while doing it).
Yeah, the 2V Zener doesnāt seem to serve any purpose where it is.
@lookmumnocomputer is it possible you meant to put it on the linear control voltage input instead of the signal input?
Indeed.
The datasheet that I have says āCurrent Outputs Capable of Swinging to Within 1,5V of Each Supplyā so that first 100k resistor would limit the maximum output current to Ā±10.5V/100k = Ā±105ĀµA so input signals above Ā±105ĀµAx47k=Ā±4.9V will get truncated at higher VCA gain settings. So as you say @fredrik the first resistor would better be replaced by a 0 ohm link (anything below 1k would probably have very little detrimental effect).
yeah the zener diode I have updated this on new ones I need to update the documentation I did it last week. its completely pointless.
initially I had it on the cv input, it took this long for me and a friend to realise it wasnāt on the cv input and on the signal input. proper nelson Mandela effect. and since its not needed on the cv input as it stands. been working perfectly fine you can ditch it. however it may explain my wonky signal which im not gunna complain about a bit of character, that stuff only adds to things. but yes the newest versions don t have these diodes and ill put an update on it right now as they can be a ball ache to find for something that serves no purpose!
I have tried numerous brands of mini toggle switches and havenāt come accfross one that needs to be bent to fit, what one is it?? do you have a link?
