Sculpt-O-Sound presents: Phase-O-Matic

The pedal form factor is not what is right me for using it in a eurorack environment. Therefore I converted a UP100 Behringer Ultra Phase Shifter I got from a friend who found it in a skip into a module. He found a Zoom G1X in said skip as well, both in working order!

I added a 7805 (with a zener and a diode) that converts the 12 V power supply voltage from the eurorack to about 9 V and added an attenuator circuit to adapt from euro rack signal levels to pedal and an amplifier to convert from pedal to euro rack signal levels.

I got rid of the sideways protruding 6 mm jack inputs and removed the DC connector as well.

I then piggy backed my converter circuits to it and stacked everything together.

There is a short sound demo here:

Note: the input sound stems from a Behringer Crave.

The small lettering on the 3D printed panel is a bit crude, but I’m working on that.

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Love the o-matic range @Jos !
I’d like to copy your power and level designs as old pedals come my way a fair bit.
Is the panel 3d printed?

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Yep, the panel is 3D printed. It takes a special setting to print small characters like the ones used in the panel text which a colleague of mine found out about. In Prusa Slicer in ‘Print settings’ tick ‘Detect thin walls’. If you don’t the slicer will not render them.

I only designed the power bit myself. The level circuit was published by Elby Design as their Stomp Box Adapter.

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how do you get 9 volts from a 7805?

edit: oh wait, it’s in your diagram. man, that’s awesome

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Do you go over the letters with a Sharpie? I don’t know what printer you have, but on any printer you should be able to pause the print on the last layer and reload a different coloured filament.

Last week I found this which could be used to automatically colour the lettering on top. (If you have an ender 3 of course).

Have you tried a smaller nozzle size? It does take longer but for fine details like text it is well worth it so long as your retraction settings are tuned correctly.

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Basically the 7805 regulates its output so that there is 5 V between its 2nd and 3rd pin. By lifting the 2nd pin from GND, you can change the output voltage. The combined zener voltage and forward voltage of the normal diode plus the 5 Volts of the 7805 leads to about 9 Volts (actually depending on the tolerances of the components I used it is a bit less).

There is another nice application for a 7805 (or 78xx for that matter) which is: use it as a current limiter. In the picture you can see in the upper half the way a 78xx is often used. The current through the load is 5 V / R load. The 7805 regulates the input voltage Vin thus that there is 5 V between its output and GND. R is often 0 Ohm.

In the bottom half you see that R is in series with the 7805, which means that the current coming from the 7805 flows through it. Given that the voltage over R is 5 Volt at max, the current flowing to the load is 5 V / R at max (the current flowing ‘back’ to the 7805 via its central pin is negligible). Current I can not get bigger than that value because the 7805 wants to limit the voltage accross R to 5 Volts. So, imagine R = 1 Ohm, then I is 5 A if the voltage accross R is 5 Volts.

Obviously this will only work in use cases where Vin is higher than 5 V (in fact is higher than the minimal input voltage the 7805 requires). When current limiting is your goal the resulting voltage often is of less importance, but to be complete here, the resulting voltage over R load simply is U load = R load * I.

For more info, see 78xx application notes.

B.t.w. I can recommend reading application notes. You often find use cases for parts in those you had not thought them usefull for.

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I am familiar with that, but I could not get this to work reliably.

I will look into this, thx!

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is there a reson not to have used a 78L09 instead ?

Ahum, I do not have one … but I have plenty of 7805s and zener diodes.

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