I wouldn’t say it’s a bad or odd sound. Just…it doesn’t sound much like a snare. More like a slightly less metallic hi-hat.
I don’t have the best ear out there by far…but I strongly suspect if I had a friend blindfold me and play the snare and hi-hat back to back I wouldn’t be able to tell which is which. I can tell they’re different. Just they both sound more like hi-hats to me.
My attitude is, if you want something that sounds like a snare, use a sampled snare. Or just get a snare drum.
If a circuit makes sounds you like, good, use it; if not, don’t; but judging it by how much it resembles a particular acoustic instrument is the wrong way to evaluate it.
(I’m similarly unimpressed with statements like “the cello [or flute or organ or… it’s been said about many different instruments] is the greatest instrument because it most closely resembles the human voice”. If it’s the sound of the human voice you want, don’t use a cello, use the human voice. The great thing about cellos and flutes and organs is that they don’t sound like the human voice, or anything else; they have their own unique and wonderful sound.)
I’ve always been somewhat skeptical of using analogue electronics to imitate real life instruments. A signal generator can be interesting in itself without having to sound like something else.
To be honest, I’m just starting out in modular so am throwing together as many modules I can find, mostly to practice soldering and diagnosing my shitty workmanship 
.
Take a day and build a case. Doesn’t have to be brilliant or accurate but it will give you something to play and fill. Loose modules break when left around. (I have a drawer full) .
JFDI certification is assured when you post a case pic.
That’s a job for this weekend.
Got some sheets of ply in the garage that should be enough to give me internal dimensions of
100cm Long, 20cm Deep and 40cm Tall
I look forward to seeing it!
Another Module build started today, just got the plate to connect with the board tomorrow. Its been -2C most of the day so haven’t been out to build the case…
Will be a tomorrow job.
-2? Try summer in Scotland. Keep going!
So I got the case all built up today!!!
Needs a lick of paint when i can be bothered (might even tolex it, unsure yet)
Up until now I’ve been running off a old PC PSU for testing modules once built up, suppose I better invest in a proper PSU and some bus boards for it.
Internal dimensions are 1M Wide x 40CM Tall
Looks nice and sturdy. Great job!
I sure hope so, its 18mm structural ply
I had some offcuts spare from another job so luckily I managed to get the whole lot out of that
If memory serves then @BlackDeath mentioned a superb tolex type paint that looked amazing.
Can’t find a ref on the site (I looked @Caustic , honest)
So, case is built! JFDI accreditation is in sight.
Tuffcab! Best stuff in the world. Tuff Cab :: Tuff Cab Black 5kg (Matt) £42.50 IN STOCK (11 Jan 2021) One bucket covers everything you could want. Get a foam roller!
Think its safe to say I have plenty of room for some LMNC panels on payday
I went with a “wood stain with polyurethane” for my case. The poly seals up the wood good, but it may or may not be the look you go for and it stinks for a while so warning about that.
The poly also gives the wood a smooth finish. Either way you want to sand it up good and at least use a primer paint (i have heard non latex).
As im using wine boxes im toying with the idea of making up some shellac and doing some french polish. Any excuse to make denatured alcohol (which is really expensive and restricted in the uk and sold in giant cans in the US- very jealous)
What’s the benefit of doing that over a poly stain?
Absolutely none! But if you’ve ever made a guitar or violin or other instrument by hand there is no better and classier way to prepare a finish.
I built a cigar box reverb and DI unit for a bass player pal and used shellac to blend it into the colour and age of his double bass. Practical? Hell no! But very pretty and to this day some engineers ( who will remain nameless) still believe it was made in 1890.
While I’m waiting for my VCO PCBs to arrive, I’m drawing schematics in Kicad and start trying them.
I went for the Simple envelope
To build the breadboard, I went from my own schematic in order to validate it for later PCB ordering
I don’t have 1µF non polarized caps and I also don’t have 1M pots.
So I put a 100nF in and triezd with 1M resistors as well as a 100k pot.
I don’t see any change unfortunately, the LED reacts instantly (at least I perceive as such).
On the drawing Sam wrote "Smaller value = shorter envelope times.
So I guess 100nF is just too small to notice.
Can someone confirm that?
(the attack pot is missing on the breadboard)
