Hey, I’m wondering how are you dealing with the order number print when ordering from jlcpcb. Is it printed on the back side, or the front side by default? Is it even worth removing it for circa 2€?
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Ouch. I’m going to put that on the back side then.
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Or get a black Sharpie. …
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That’s for sure, but better not to use it, right…
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Personally I ask them to put it inside a box I draw on the silkscreen:
This way I can hide it behind a component!
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So, is aluminum any stiffer than FR4?
I ran a comparison by taking two 10 cm wide panels, one Al and one FR4 (both fabricated by JLCPCB), and putting each up on a couple of blocks with a weight in the center; then I took pictures. Granted this was not a very precisely controlled experiment, and in particular the two panels were not the same design with the same holes. But I think it’s enough to tell me the two are not very different in stiffness.
One other difference is the FR4 panel has copper pours on both sides while the Al panel has no pours. I’d be surprised if that makes a big difference but am prepared to be shown my guess is wrong.
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The photos of the panels under the deflection test remind me of being at college and learning structural mechanics. The deflection looks small in both cases, however, most of the stiffness of a module is gained when connecting the panel to the pots and jacks that are soldered to the main PCB, This forms a truss-like structure with the stiffness being governed by the connections to the PCB and panel.
Now it would be interesting to see the same test as above when the modules are constructed, maybe with photos taken before and after the load is applied so the change in deflection can be seen.
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Adding broad washers to jacks and pots; either top, bottom or both can be very effective in reducing any deformation as does using a plate of rigid rectangular plastic in place of a washer to match the bend to the panel shape. Alternatively if you offset the stiff plastic with standoffs you can make a very rigid structure. Like stacked boards.
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Has anyone ever tried this type of stitching around a mounting hole with JLC? I’ve seen it on a few commercial PCBs. The idea is that by adding vias, the pad is more strongly bound to the board, and is more resistant to stripping from torque applied to it.
[edit] just to add, I’ve never had a pad strip. I think you’d be doing something quite wrong if it does. But still, could be a nice little feature.
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i havent, but the idea seems sound. Be sure to check 2x the tolerances so they dont reject the design.
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These seem pretty common on the first few boards I pulled out my scrap box. I doubt JLC will have an issue with that, vias can go really close to the edge.
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Since this has been linked to, and its from ages ago, i think i should add to this that you should fill in with a ground plane for rigidity. The panels i made here were serviceable, but flex more than if they included a ground plane.
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I am hoping to make blue front panels, with white text and graphics silk screen.
Are those blue pcbs made from blue FR-4, or is the colour due entirely to blue solder resist?
If it is blue solder resist, what is the native colour of the FR-4 underneath?
Thanks
@telec16 hasn’t been here for some time, but at JLCPCB anyway the color is the solder mask. The FR4 is yellowish. Here is a picture with a panel with white solder mask, and an area with no mask where you can see copper lines and bare FR4.
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(But I still follow my notifications. Hi there! It’s good to see you again!)
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Any experiences with backlit PCB panels?
I see a decent amount of modules that do that, e.g.:
It seems conceptually simple, but at 3 weeks + 20 euros per attempt, I’d rather ask what there is to know about the technique before I try my hand at it. What gives the best results? Any gotchas, best practices? Do some colors work better than other? Best type of LEDs, how far from the panel? Any knowledge you learned the hard way?
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I read this a while back, but never tried it:
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Neato, a DIYer who wasn’t on my radar yet
Main takeaway from the article seems to be that you want some, but not to much distance from the LED, it doesn’t quote hard numbers, but I’d eyeball 4mm would be a good starting point for most cases