Here it is. Too much spaghetti, so I’ve used dots to show where the ends are and lines to join them. The switches are those lovely pcb mount sub miniature toggle switches.
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Maybe you can add “Sequencer …” and also “Not verified” on your pic, until you’ll tested it
I wonder about the usefulness of your choice to do it on 2 plates (maybe my economic side 
), for people (like me) who make their Kosmo panels themselves, you have to drill in the exact place of the pots and jacks which is doable, but not super simple, unless you propose a panel with.
But I think those who buy or have their panels manufactured are often PCB enthusiasts.
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Ugh, tell me about it!
I have found it really hard to drill aluminium accurately. I gave up in the end and now I use blank pcb board which is lots easier. I found some graph paper on Amazon which has 1/10th of an inch squares, so that matches up with veroboard. I paste it on the blank board and then drill. The two panel thing is a bit of a faff but i don’t like all the loose pots and jacks. Swings and roundabouts I guess…
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I use wood for my panels that are quite easy to work with too.
Afterwards for the stripboards, 1, 2 … everyone has their own view of things, organize as everyone prefers, there are even some who don’t use any at all and solder the components directly together (Juanito Moore !!!), in any case good luck with this big spaggethi nest 
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Finished the build today (still have to make a final panel, and do a LOT of tidying up), and apart from a problem with step 7 (probably a short) all is good.
It’s a really nice schematic, so thanks very much for your help! I’m really pleased to have got it all in 10hp eurorack.
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The frosted acrylic look is pretty sweet.
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Ha, yes, LEDs look great through it. At the mo this is just a tupperware box, but I have a friend with a 3D printer who can make one for me.
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The tupperware build may well be structurally superior to a 3D print. I’ll certainly be looking at used translucent ice cream cartons in a different way from now on.
Late reply but i was behind on this topic.
Do you center the holes before you drill them? It makes all the difference for accurately drilling metal. You can use a center point or maybe a nail if you can’t get one. You mark your hole and then hit it with a hammer.
I use hardened vernier calipers to scribe on waterproof marker.
I could maybe make a quick guide on making super accurate aluminium panels if people are interested
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Yeah I do all that, but I much prefer pcb material now, finished with car paint and laquer.
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You know what, that reply sounded quite rude didn’t it?
I say go for it. maybe I’ll learn something and you will have turned me back onto aluminium panels.
Probably best on another thread though. This one is getting a bit off topic…
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Don’t worry, i didn’t find it rude at all
I just have to look for some suitable panel material as i don’t have any unused kosmo panels left. Might do it on a non-Kosmo format panel but that shouldn’t matter too much for the process
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As a complete newbie, i managed to build up a simple 8 step sequencer with a 4017 and a 555 as the clock. but i now realize i want to use it as a pattern designer for drums. Basicaly i want to have a trigger output on each individual step. ( EX: step 1 to trigger the kick, step 2 and 3 to trigger the hats and 4 to trigger the snare ) would a simple jack placed after each led do the trick?
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For what you want, i think the Big Button (a Trigger sequencer) would be a better choice
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I was looking at the big button also, but i want something without arduino and such.
I remeber i saw something called HSTA baby 8 with similar features, but i cannot find a manual sadly to see the schematic for it.
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Not after the LED, no. More like in parallel with it, and its resistor; but show us your schematic before we try to design mods for it.
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Thanks for your reply, i don’t really know how to draw schematics… to be honnest this was my second time using the soldering iron :)) but i managed to put this together. also there is a mistake in the pot and diodes part…
For each step there is a pot whose 3rd pin and an LED whose anode is connected to the chip.
You could connect a 1k resistor to that line (you could connect it at the pot pin 3 or at the LED anode pin or at the chip) and an output jack to the other end of the resistor. Then each jack would get a gate with an amplitude equal to your + voltage rail on the corresponding step.
That might be a larger voltage than you’d want for a gate. You could reduce it with a voltage divider, though you’d need a larger series resistor in that case to keep within the 4017’s output current limits. For instance to go from 12 V to (slightly over) 5 V change the 1k to 3k and add a 2.2k resistor between the jack and ground.
You also could add a toggle switch upstream of the series resistor, to enable or disable the gate for each step so you could for instance turn the snare on that step on and off without unplugging it. In that case it’s definitely best to have some resistor to ground — even if you want a 12 V gate, keep the series resistor at 1k and put a ~100k resistor to ground after the 1k. That way you do not have floating outputs.
If you have only one hat and want it triggered on steps 2 and 3 you’ll need some way to combine (logical OR) the gates for steps 2 and 3. Maybe a simple diode logic circuit downstream of the Baby 8.
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Thanks allot, i think i will try setting it up this weekend!
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I finally managed to try your suggested mod, i got into the issue, that even without the resistors, i have way too less v on each individual output and it wont trigger the modules… any suggestion ?