Hey @Dud , please pass on my/our thanks for this share. Much appreciated
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Hello!
It was I that shared the code/schematics with Dud - glad to see folks here are investigating the MiniPops O2 further.
However, I just realised the version shared doesn’t use the original samples - some may have already noticed the sounds in the code here are somewhat ‘experimental’ sounding, or just plain awful!
My apologies.
Of course, you can simply cut and paste the relevant MIDI stuff to your existing sketches but it might be best to replace the shared file above with an authentic sounding version for anyone coming to this afresh.
@Dud - I will email you a replacement, if you wish to re-upload it.
Cheers!
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Thank you again @jackwildchurch! The original sample code would very much appreciated.
I was looking at some arduino code from notes and volts that reads a dip switch on initiation to determine a MIDI channel.
Reading your post, I was wondering if there would be space to include a switch to select alternative sets of samples in the code to populate the program on startup or reset. What do you think?
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Yes thx again, i’ve changed it !
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@Farabide It would take someone far cleverer than I to know if that’s even possible - I’m certainly no coder.
One thing I do know is the samples take up most of the memory so having different sets on board that you could switch between seems unlikely - but don’t take my word for it!
I’m trying some different samples and patterns for another build right now so I’ll endeavour to share the results if it works out OK.
I built the notes and volts auduino synth incorporating the dip switch to determine the MIDI channel but that was for MIDI in. I’m hoping someone will eventually sort out how to add MIDI in to the MiniPops - that would be awesome!
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@Dud hopefully there are no further issues but if anyone finds it doesn’t sound right in any way, please let me know. I’ve got several iterations of the code where I’ve tweaked things (unsuccessfully) and I haven’t been very organised in filing things - hence the initial mix-up here.
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Hi,
I’ve built another minipops using some different samples and patterns.
For drums I’ve used an 808 kick, hi-hat and snare, plus tom and cymbal from a casiotone but kept jan’s original cowbell, clave and maracas.
I’ve attempted some ‘breakbeat’ type patterns - there are 12, selected by push buttons (2 banks of six).
Getting samples to sound half decent within the limits of the arduino sketch took more time than building the hardware! I’m still not sure if it’s OK. Has anyone else created their own sounds?
Anyway, here’s a video that hopefully gives an idea of how it sounds:
EDIT: not sure how to get youtube videos to appear within the post - do I need to attain a certain discourse ‘trust level’?
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really nice work !
btw you can make a space after your video link to show it dirrectely here 
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@Dud Thanks - I’m not sure what ‘make a space’ is…could you explain more?
after your link put a space (the big space bar on the keyboard )
or the “enter” button do the trick too
or you’re right and you can not do it for the moment, i don’t know for this
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Thanks again (and to Caustic for editing) - hopefully I’ll know what to do next time
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The problem was discourse was treating it as an embedded hyperlink. All you need to do for streaming sites etc is copy past the url on one line and it autoformats.
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Hey !
That’s a really great build !
I am myself building one with custom samples and patterns that I want to use for a live show (if there is still such a thing…) but the potentiometer for choosing pattern is making it hard to be accurate.
Would you be willing to share you code for the button selection ?
Thanks! There’s no code specific to the button selection. It’s just a case of wiring resistors in a chain so that each button makes contact at some point along the chain, thereby replicating the potentiometer but with discreet steps . A similar thing can be done with a rotary switch. I also found the potentiometer approach uncertain so I prefer this way.
I can post a wiring diagram if that helps.
Cheers
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I see ! For sure a wiring driagram would help me wrap my head around it, but looking at interlock switches I am not sure i’ll be able to figure them out. Did you salvage that one ? They look hard too source (or maybe i’m not looking for the right thing) I’ll probably go for a rotary switch then. Is it gonna be all the same value resistors, like a ladder ?
Thanks for the answer, I hope i’ll figure something out !
Yeah, just use equal resistors between the rotary switch terminals and it effectively becomes a discrete-valued pot. You get 0 V at the first position and 12 V (or whatever you connect it to) at the last, and the rest are at equal voltage steps in between. So in the code just test for crossing the midpoints of those steps.
analogoutput explains it well. A rotary switch is much easier to source and wire. However, if you want push button action, you’ll need ‘ganged’ switches (perhaps there are other terms?) so that pushing a button releases the one previously on. A good source for these is an old AV selector box - like this:
Here’s a wiring diagram:
Since there were only 6 switches in the set I used, I also added a Bank switch to double them up to 12 selectable patterns. I didn’t do anything with the code regarding the number of patterns so the arduino still expects 16 divisions. Therefore there are some restistors at the end of the chain that are not selected between - if that makes sense.
In short, a rotary switch is much easier! Also, I’ve found there are a couple of selections where the arduino is not sure of the exact pattern resulting in some random, unpredictable flip-flopping of adjacent beats. At first, I wanted to solve this but actually, I’ve come to appreciate the ‘ghost in the machine’ nature of it and left as is. I’ve also experienced this on the other build that used a rotary switch. Perhaps using metal film resistors instead of carbon would allow for more precise resistance divisions?
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You don’t really need high precision — just make sure the code is checking for the midpoint voltage between two positions. For instance, 12 positions means 11 steps from the first to the last; if the first is at ground and the last is at 5 V then the voltages you expect are 0 V, 5/11 V, 10/11 V, 15/11 V, … and so on. So in the code test for 5/22 V, 15/22 V, 25/22 V, … etc., and that’ll keep you well away from a value being on the edge between two positions. (Really of course you test for ADC values, e.g. 1023/22, 1023*3/22, …)
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Thanks for the explanation !
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Thanks a lot for the explanations and diagram! I do understand the concept, but I’m not sure to be able to put it in practice (calculate the resistor values etc) so i guess i’ll stick to the pot for now. You build is looking so good !