Tnx for the clarification. Now that i know what to look for I found an Owon that does 20000 counts for 40 euro, so I’m still considering that one, but I know I’m set for binning anyway
Yes, my 6000 counts Owon OW18A is indeed good enough to measure 0,1%. And no, I don’t even need the 1k…
I really shouldn’t be doing this stuff so late in the night
I know if you don’t have the $ you don’t have it , but the 0.1% resistors are so much easier you don’t have to go through hundreds of resistors to find the few [ which is actually more than a few needed ] that match close enough . plus they are cheaper than a new meter .
I’ve yet to find more than one european distributor that carries the 0,1% and the one I know of is much more expensive. Mouser, digikey etc charge 25-30 euros delivery and that’s more than I’m willing to spend on something that can be sent in an envelope…
I just sat down with a mountain of resistors and my meter, turned on youtube and measured away. Turns out that the big batch of 1% I got off tayda was much more precise than the spec and 85% of individual resistors fell in one of two different bins. I have matched a ton already, probably more than I need.
Still though, thats one evening I could have spent soldering or practising for an upcoming gig. Next time I will probably buy them anyway
I bought my 0.1% from reichelt…
Depends on what you need — do you need many resistors or just a couple? And do you need precision or matching? If you need 1.000k ± 0.001k resistors (e.g. 1.000k and 1.001k) you might need to go through a lot to find them. If you just need a pair of 1.00k ± 0.01k that match each other at the 0.001k level (e.g. 1.006k and 1.007k) my experience is that you can probably find them in a couple of minutes out of a stash of a dozen or so 1% resistors. I’ve never felt it was worth paying $0.60 each plus $9 shipping to get them.
(Oh, and this is assuming through hole. If I had to match SMD resistors I probably wouldn’t — if it’s an SMD project I’m probably ordering from someplace like Mouser anyway, so the $9 is already in play, and the sheer mechanical horror of manipulating and keeping track of and getting multimeter probes on a few dozen SMD resistors is something I’d want to avoid.)
Yeah that’s true, i found precious few that were within 0,1% of the nominal value, but loads that were within 0,1% of each other.
Also:
Multimeter SMD pincer probe.
Makes measuring dozens of troughhole resistors a breeze as well…
I now have 2 of those tester tweezers. One I have put Dupont style ends on to connect it to a cheap multi component testers so I can quickly check polarity etc. I found it useful to clearly mark which tip is +ve.
Ohhh, off to ebazon I go as that solves my growing woops it fell on the floor mountain.
I think that chip caught me out too. There’s certainly one board with a chip oriented that way.
It blew the 10R too. I spend a while find another fault on that one.
1008 Right
I got confused abot “optional polarityy protection diodes” on the Nonlinear Circuits Bindubba 2 dimensional sequencer. Instead of looking at the provided board (and printed board layout), I “assumed” these were series diodes (Shottkey, typically) to block current flow if power is connected backwards. So I put in wire jumpers instead. Turns out they are parallel across power to ground, and are made to short the supply and cause it to go into current limiting (“lights out”) mode. So I carefully soldered a short from +12v to ground and -12v to grouund. Pulled the wires, and it works great and lasts a long time.
That’s right, the midi to trigger, glad I’m not the only one haha
I just got a key step 32. It uses a 9 volt power supply. I had a 12 volt power supply plugged into it for about 20 minutes before I realized what I had done the first time I used it. This happened today. I have plugged the proper power source into it and it still works. How badly could I have damaged this thing?
Probably not at all, it will have internal regulation.
I will just use the USB power from now on. Thanks Craig!
As @craigyb says, internal regulation.
But.
The more serious risk is that 9V power supplies come in two polarities: +V on the inner pin (seems logical) or +V on the outer sleeve (most common for guitar pedals, blame Roland/Boss in the 70s?).
So the wrong PSU might power your keystep (or your guitar pedal) in reverse, and the device might not have any internal protection against that.
I found that powering a KeyStep Pro solely by USB from PC caused MIDI noise through my mixer. I thought it most likely to be an earth loop, but it went away when I plugged in the 12V PSU as well so probably insufficient power from my PC’s USB socket.
Right on. I’ve got the 32 key. I was super worried. But all is good now. Got my 555 vco calibrated as well with the help of the Keystep and it’s got volt per octave tuning over the entire range of the Keystep. Very cool.
So I’m building this AX-80 rack synth and testing everything, I added a pot for modulation and a pot for modulation depth. Turned both to max and no modulation, read through all the manuals etc on how to assign modulation etc, no joy. I was convinced the modulation was broken or I had wired it up incorrectly even after checking and double checking.
Today I was creating the front panel graphics and lo and behold, two of the buttons on the front panel assign the mod wheel to the oscillators or the VCF frequency. I Had forgotten what the buttons did. Doh!