Having problems with the Frequency Central Power pcb rev.2

Hello fellow electronics enthusiasts!

I’ve assembled the FC power pcb rev.2. used the bom on their website and turned it on. I’m using a EHX AC/AC, 1000ma adapter. It’s with europe plug since im in the Netherlands affordable options where scarce. Now when I plug in the adapter only one light turns on. (On the -12v side). I did measure + 12, -12 and +5 with my multimeter. After a minute or two the light went of and the adaptor won’t work now. No biggie, ordered a new one, same thing happend when powering the simple vco. I’ve checked al the polarities and they look fine. No bridging by soldering too. I have no clue what is going wrong and I’m getting lowkey desperate. If anyone has a guess what it might be i would be very happy.

See the picture for more information:

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what output voltage is the AC supply?

The circuit is likely to blow before a wallwart. Check for any dead shorts.

The lack of output on the +12 and +5 LED would indicate there is no +12V rather than two blown LED’s.

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This is the wallwart I’ve been using:

I don’t know where to measure. I’ve measured all the diodes and they seem fine? Right direction in continuity test: -+ 550 and and wrong direction 0L

Hello fellow Dutchman!

Did you put some insulation between the -12V regulator and the heat sink? The negative regulators tab isn’t connected to 0V as with the positive one, it’s connected to the input.

Please post some pictures of al the angles of the PSU.

Also, you could do with more 0V wires at the output of the PSU. Ideally there is the least resistance on this line.

I haven’t insulated any regulator. Should i have done that?

Edit: took out all leds and tested them, checked polarity and solderd them back. One leds leg broke so i had to replace it with a regular sized led

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As long as the heatsinks don’t touch each other, you’re fine.

Have you checked that the 1 uF caps (not visible in your photos) are soldered in the right way, and that the AC diodes (also not visible) are ok?

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Apparently they’re 100 nF, not 1 µF, in the rev. 2, and looks like they’re non polarized and the diodes are right from the new photos.

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Does anyone have a tip how i can power this without killing the adapter? Then i could measure the voltages but now i am to scared to hook it up and rip trough my third power adapter

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It’s mysterious that it’s killing adapters. I can’t see how that would happen unless they’re being shorted out. I assume you’ve checked for a short between the AC pads?

There’s not a lot that can go wrong here. The parts look correct and correctly oriented. Unless you got the ±12V regulators switched around! Check for solder bridges on the underside, maybe post a picture of the underside. Only other thing I can think of is a bad regulator.

I suppose you could connect an adapter with a fuse on the output side to protect it, but I’m not sure what you’d learn from blowing a fuse.

Do the blue wires actually connect to something?

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Yeah from experience I would start by making sure the regulators aren’t swapped.

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I’ve checked the regulators, they’re in the correct place.

I couldn’t find any solder bridges.

The blue wires connect to a bus board. Measured that one trough no solder bridges.

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I just noticed the name on the Frequency Central PCB is Tom Wiltshire. The Electric Druid guy?

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Ah, ok, I looked at the PCB on frequencycentral.co.uk and didn’t notice the changes.

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So after doing a continuity test again i found out on the 2x8 output pins did short. I desolderd the busboard and no more shorting on the output pins. I did not see any soldering bridges on the busboard but something was wrong.

Do you think is now more safe to order a new wallwart and try again?

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Can we see photos of the bus board?

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Ofcourse! I did investigate it further and tried to clean it up, now there is no short between +12 and gnd.


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Bottom side:!

Edit: i have parted both bus boards.the second one(still holding the screw) is the one that shorts +12 with gnd. I have looked extensively but can’t find any soldering bridges

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As other people have said, it is very unlikely that the wall warts will die on you when shorting the power supply. But there may be a fuse in them that blowns. If you exchange that, you might be able to reuse the wall warts. Note that a fuse might be a glass or ceramic part resembling a resistor but it may also be a short meandering piece of copper on a PCB. So don’t throw out the wall warts before checking that. If you do not trust yourself with a mains device, you can always go to your local Repair Cafe and have someone check it for you, there are plenty of those in the Netherlands (current count = 511).

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Very good idea! Thank you. The output pins no longer short so im am positive it’s fine now. The second busboard is still shorting. I am done for now with that one. I’m not needing it yet anyway. The other busboard is fine now. I replaced the blue output wires with a ribbon cable for a better gnd as suggested

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glad it seems like you got it figured out . its crazy that the wall wart is the weak link when something is shorted on the other side of the chain . but they are fused to prevent fires so I guess thats good and possibly repairable. but you have to crack them open to do that , for how cheap they are not sure if it is worth it unless you are low on funds or just don’t like throwing fixable things in the bin .

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