#4710 safety valve

Good spot, here’s a better shot of the silk screen so afaik that chip is in the right orientation.

Still think it’s the valve because I get signal on the input pin but nothing on any of the out pins. It does get warm enough though so I’m not 100% sure what’s wrong with it, only thing I can think of is that I damaged it trying to solder it down? Wouldn’t explain why it started working and then stopped the day after though.

3 Likes

I just finally checked mine and here’s the issues that I’m having with mine. First, I have removed the 27r resistor and put a wire between the two pads like CyroS did. I am using the following tube:

When I first power it up the LED behind the tube flashes once brightly then it gets extremely dim to the point where you barely see it.

If NOTHING is plugged into it either on the in or out and with everything to 11 then:

  • the tube gets warm
  • the LED behind the tube is BARELY visible, but flickering
  • (I think it’s supposed to self-oscilate? so I should hear something on the output? but I do not.)

If I have something plugged into it and everything still turned to 11 then:

  • the tube gets warm
  • the LED behind the tube TURNS OFF completely
  • I can hear that each of the pots has a mild effect on the signal when I turn them but it certainly is not distorted in the least.
    on/off bypass switch works fine and so does the LED next to it.

Another thing to note: As soon as I plugin ANYTHING into either the input or output the LED behind the tube turns off completely.

Ideas as to what’s going on with it?

1 Like

Got signal outta mine now! BUT…big but…only if I physically touch tube posts 6 and 7. I’ve reflowed each post and even thought about trying to solder the other side underneath the tube itself.
Grounding perhaps?

1 Like

All very odd, I will retest mine later if I get a chance.

Still new to modular synths so bear with, would you put this before or after a 1114 filter?

either way but after I think would be the best!

4 Likes

Can anyone tell me what is wrong with my Safety Valve? Suggestions of things to try? I’ve already reflowed, removed the 27r and shorted it. Details in my post above regarding the issues with it. I figure after 2 weeks no one would mind me added a “bump” to this previous post. :slight_smile:

2 Likes

@fredrik suggests that the 27r should be more than a 1/4 w resistor. So either a 1/2W or you can put a few resistors in series.

2 Likes

I’m having a really hard time finding 5-pin 1/4" jacks anywhere in the US. I think I’ve finally ordered the right ones from Tayda via a link in this thread, but it’s a puzzler. Anyone know why Jameco and Digikey don’t have these? Also a total noob question, but what’s the reason for the 5-pin over a 3 that seems to be common?

DigiKey and Mouser both carry the Amphenol ACJS-MN-5, along with others with that footprint. Jameco has this one which looks like it fits too.

Tayda doesn’t sell the 3-pin version. But if they did or you got one elsewhere, it would fit in the 5-pin footprint. Vice versa would require a ball peen hammer. And if you have a bag of 5-pin jacks, you’re all set when you go to build a headphone output.

1 Like

I certainly don’t mind it as I’m having the same problem now. Just switched out my 27r for 10r because I also wanted to hear what it sounds like without a signal in but no dice.
No sound, no LED lighting up. Except when I touch the Valve pins as mentioned above, it lights up slightly after I let go of it.

have you tried bypassing the resistor completely? as just put a wire in instead of 10r even.

1 Like

Ben and I are having similar issues with ours. I still can’t get mine to work. I tried a 10r and it didn’t work and then I tried bypassing the resistor completely by soldering a wire to both pads and it still doesn’t work. I’ve ordered a 1/2 watt resistor to try as @fredrik suggested via caustic but it’s not arrived yet.

Could it be the valve that I used? This is the one I used:

@Ben which valve did you use?

2 Likes

Ah, cheers mate! I don’t know why I had it in my head that Mouser was a UK distributor. My searches on DigiKey and Jameco were just flawed I guess. The 3 conductors that I accidentally picked up have such fat legs they wouldn’t fit into the holes at all haha.

I have two modules and bought 2 different tubes, this one:

and also this one:

I soldered one of the tubes as well to make sure that’s not a problem. If I put a strong enough signal in I get something out and also the LED is lighting up when I turn up the gain. At first I thought it was the 27r but that doesn’t seem to be it. Judging from your experience a wire also doesn’t solve this so it has to be something else.

1 Like

yeah definitely something up.

have we already spoke about power supplies? i’m trying to figure out what could be the problem as even small signals should be proper amplified.

so the LED under the tube lights up when the gain is up correct? would seem that maybe its working as it would be in self oscillation mode.

one thing to try!!! the power supply you have if it isn’t too much of a pain, unplug a bunch of modules and just have the safety valve and an audio source plugged in and see what happens

it may very well be a power supply thing being overstretched maybe??

I did find an issue like this when I made the 10 of then which was obviously way more current than a synth power supply was happy with I found that after 5 they started to work a little strangely. so I just shoved in another power supply in parallel for the video to give enough current.

but knowing about the rest of the setup could help!

2 Likes

So I can rule out power supply as I’m using a separate one to test modules. I just did a quick test with the following setup:
Pocket Operator PO-28 → #2399 Triple Splashback → #4710 Safety Valve
I can hear the pocket operator sounds going through fine, I can mess it up nicely with the Splashback and send it through the valve.
When I have both on bypass it is a decent volume. As soon as I turn on the safety valve, with the volume knob turned up all the way the signal gets a whole lot lower in volume. I have to turn up the gain almost all the way to get to the same volume as on bypass. I can see the LED going when a signal gets through so it is working. The “destructive” effect is also hearable (I made a quick beat with vocal samples on the PO-28) but if I turn up the gain all the way it’s not much louder than on bypass. It’s a nice distortion but I think something brings the signal down a lot. That’s why it’s also not working without a strong enough input signal. Without a signal turning all the knobs up there is still no sound and no LED activity. Hope that helps in finding the issue.
Here is a quick video showing the effect, triple splashback is on bypass, volume of safety is turned up all the way, gain is turned down all the way and I turn it up and finally switch back to bypass:

(sorry for the shitty quality, I just put my headphones around my mobile phone to record it :grin:)

1 Like

Hello All

Has anyone got a clip of theirs in action I could have a look at, Got mine working but not quite convinced its working to its full capability, doesn’t seem as Raucous as I was expecting. I saw Sams video on the strip board version and mine doesn’t sound anywhere near as interesting.

Cheers

hay are you plugging into it? things like single square waves for instance just sound like square waves going out

1 Like

really odd it sounds like its not ge3tting warm enough, sounds like its cold. but like you said separate power supply and 27r bypassed. those tubes you mention shouldn’t be a problem. really racking my brain hmm

2 Likes