# Diy gate/trigger button circuit? **URL:** \ **Category:** DIY STUFF\ **Created:** [April 16, 2021, 6:23am UTC](https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/t/diy-gate-trigger-button-circuit/3376 "2021-04-16T06:23:26Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 1\ **Showing post:** 32
**Author:** ![analogoutput](https://yyz2.discourse-cdn.com/free1/user_avatar/lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/analogoutput/32/29663_2.png) [@analogoutput](https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/u/analogoutput)\ **Post date:** [January 1, 2023, 5:11pm UTC](https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/t/diy-gate-trigger-button-circuit/3376/32 "2023-01-01T17:11:22Z")
There’s a whole topic of course: > [@Typical module power circuit](https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/t/typical-module-power-circuit/1134): > > Hey guys, so after playing with a handful of designs I’ve noticed some differences here and there when it comes to how people design their decoupling and whatnot. I figure a picture is better than words: Some designs call for 10Rs, some call for ferrite bead, some say either. Others nothing at all. Schematics don’t really make it clear where abouts some of these components should be—i have learned a few things (placement of the IC decouples thanks @fredrik) but still have some questi… I favor series Schottkys, which protect against power reversal but do not help in case of shorts and do drop a little voltage. But only a little, you shouldn’t be relying on your power rails for precise voltage values anyway, and pretty much the only time you possibly have a short is when you power up the module for the first time, and before doing that you should be testing for shorts. And series Schottkys can be easily fitted to existing PCBs in place of 10R resistors or (twitch, twitch) ferrite beads. A matter of taste, though. Polyswitch fuses are cheap enough and if you have the PCB real estate they’re good insurance. --- _[View the full topic](https://lookmumnocomputer.discourse.group/t/diy-gate-trigger-button-circuit/3376)._